When it comes to looking and keeping cool, a linen jacket is an absolute must-have. Thanks to linen’s breathability and lightweight texture, a jacket made out of linen not only looks comfortable and laid-back but also provides the ultimate armor to see you through the warmer months. To wear linen confidently is to embrace all its wrinkles and crumples, and the easiest way to do this is with our Mariana jacket.
The Mariana jacket has all the nonchalance we want. It’s unlined and has a relaxed fit with single button closure, slightly cropped sleeves and two welt pockets for your essentials.
An off-duty essential, the Mariana jacket will become your best companion for casual dinners, relaxed summer gatherings and exotic travels. Follow this step-by-step tutorial and make a linen jacket for any occasion.
For our sample US size 6 pictured in this tutorial we used 2 yards of 4C22 DESERT TAUPE Softened heavy weight linen.
For other sizes, please refer to the yardage table in the PDF pattern to determine the required amount of fabric.
Matching sewing thread, one 1”-wide button, fusible interfacing.
Scissors, pins, ruler, chalk, measuring tape, fabric marker, buttonhole foot, seam ripper, needle, sewing machine
You can access the multi-sized printable PDF pattern by following this link HERE. All seam allowances are included and a standard 3/8″ (1 cm) unless otherwise specified. The model is wearing US size 6.
Remember to transfer all the notches onto your fabric.
Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, dry at room temperature. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.
1. Start with the front welt pockets. We have a very detailed tutorial about sewing welt pockets that will guide you through the construction process. The only difference is that in the tutorial the welt is horizontal, whereas here it is vertical.
You can still follow all the steps but place your two pockets bags as shown in the photo below. When you fold the pockets to one side, one pocket bag may be slightly longer than the other. Simply trim them down so they match.
When the pockets are completed, you can assemble the bodice and sew the notched collar.
2. With right sides together, pin the two fronts and the back of your jacket at the shoulder seams. Sew at a 3/8” seam allowance and finish the seams with a serger or a zigzag to prevent the fabric from fraying. Press the seams flat folding the serged/zigzagged edges towards the back. Remember to backstitch at the start and finish of the seams.
3. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of your facing pieces.
Note: To reduce bulk, you can trim the shoulder/neckline seam allowances of your interfacing.
4. Assemble the facing pieces right sides together at the shoulders. Stitch at a 3/8” seam allowance, press the seams open and serge/zigzag the outer raw edge.
5. Interface the under collar and attach it to the jacket, along the inner edge and between the notches. Attach the upper collar to the facing. Clip the seam allowances to release the tension of the fabric and press the seams open.
6. You can now sew the collar and finish the front opening with the facing. To guide you through the process as best as we can, we have prepared a very detailed tutorial on how to sew a notched collar. Follow the steps and complete your notched collar and front opening.
Notice how the facing is shorter at the bottom than the front fabric. We intentionally made it shorter in order to avoid bulky corners when hemming.
7. Pin and stitch the sleeves to the armholes right sides together at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Grade and finish the seams. Press the seam allowance towards sleeve.
8. Pin (matching underarm seams) and stitch the side seams and the underarms all in one seam at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance then grade and serge/zigzag the raw edges together. Press the seam allowances towards the back.
9. Finish the sleeve opening with a rolled hem. Fold the fabric twice to the wrong side (3/8” to 1/2”). Press, pin and edgestitch.
10. Hem the bottom of the dress: fold the fabric twice to the wrong side (3/8” to 1/2”), pin and press. Fold your hem over the facing and pin catching the pocket edges in the hem.
11. Edgestitch the hem.
12. Now that your bodice is assembled, you can sew the buttonhole and attach the button. Note that in women’s clothing, the buttonholes are sewn on the right button band, and the buttons – on the left.
12. Give your jacket a good last press and you are all done! Wear it for any occasion from the sun-baked office to laid-back holidays and keep your style fresh. And don’t forget to share your pictures and tag your creations with #FabricsStoreMarianaPattern hashtag. We love seeing what you make!
Next week Sarah Kirsten will show you how to add lining to the Mariana Notched Collar Jacket pattern, so stay tuned!