Straight sleeveless V-neck dresses are on-trend this season so we decided to make one and share this sewing tutorial with you. It’s perfect for summer when worn on bare skin or over a plain top for colder months. The simple straight look accentuates the silhouette, the front slit pockets bring an original touch and the linen fabric makes it look simple yet elegant.
2 yards of IL019 BLACK Softened, matching sewing thread
Pattern paper, scissors, fabric marker, pins, ruler, fusible interfacing, chalk, sewing machine
Beginner – Intermediate
Link to the pattern is here. Both front and back pieces are combined within the same diagram. Start with the back piece (upper neckline), trace and cut the fabric. Remember to add seam allowances as indicated in the pattern. Then take your scissors and cut off the excess of pattern paper using the front neckline as your guide thus obtaining your front V-neck piece. Flip the pattern over, pin and trace.
The diagram shows the pattern for US size 6 (UK size 10).
If you need help grading your pattern, please follow this tutorial.
Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, dry in room temperature.
1. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.
2. Use a serger, or choose your own method to protect the seams from fraying (on all panels except the neckline, armholes and the bottom hem). Here are some examples of the finishing techniques. Make sure the method you choose does not add weight to the fabric.
3. Prepare your garment by pinning and sewing your shoulder seams right sides together. Note that it’s best to leave the side seams open for now as it will be easier for you to attach the facing when you have an easy access to the neckline area.
4. Press the seams open and turn your garment right side out.
5. Following this tutorial apply the fusible interfacing to the facing pieces and finish the neckline.
Note: You can serge/zigzag the bottom edge of the facing to protect it from fraying.
6. Finish your armholes with a rolled hem by folding and pressing the edge of the fabric 1/4” to the wrong side. Now fold again to 3/8″ enclosing the raw edge within this second fold. Pin.
7. Place the fabric under the foot wrong side up and sew using the straight stitch (always remember to backstitch at the beginning and the end of the stitch line). Press the hem.
8. Pin the side seams of your bodice right sides together.
9. Sew and press. Don’t forget to backstitch! You are done with the bodice, now it’s time to move on to the skirt.
10. Pin the side seams of the skirt right sides together.
11. Stitch and press the seams open.
12. Finish the bottom edge of the skirt with a rolled hem by folding and pressing the edge of the fabric 3/8” to the wrong side. Now fold again to 1/2″ enclosing the raw edge within this second fold. Pin.
13. Place the fabric under the foot wrong side up and sew using the straight stitch (always remember to backstitch at the beginning and the end of the stitch line). Press the hem.
14. Let’s prepare the pockets by folding the rectangles in half and pinning the side seams together.
15. Stitch along the seams, but leave the top 3/8 in (1cm) seam allowance stitch free, this is to make it easier to pin onto the bodice panels.
16. With the wrong side of the front upper bodice panel facing you, and the pockets’ wrong sides facing outwards, take the top pocket panels and place them symmetrically at 2.5″ from the side seams. Pin right sides of the bodice and the pockets together. Make sure the bottom panel of the pocket is not caught.
17. Sew along this seam (only the pocket) at a 3/8 in (1cm) seam allowance backstitching at both ends.
18. Now we need to attach the skirt to the bodice. Pin the skirt’s waist to the bodice’s waist right sides together (wrong sides facing outwards) matching the side seams. When you come to the pockets, you pin the bottom pocket panel to the skirt waist.
19. First stitch just the pockets at a 3/8 in (1cm) seam allowance backstitching at both ends.
20. Now stitch all around the waist (except for the pocket openings) to attach the skirt to the bodice at a 3/8 in (1cm) seam allowance.
21. Press the seams open and you are all done!