Inspired by the relaxed elegance of a classic painter’s coat silhouette, Mara is a loose-fitting A-line coat with a collar, sleeve tabs, pockets and a back vent for movement. Crafted from our gorgeous textured heavy-weight linen, it is an ideal piece to transition the seasons. Simple yet elegant, Mara is that one coat in your closet that will go with everything.
For our sample US size 6 pictured in this tutorial we used 4 yards of IL090 ROYAL PURPLE Softened Canvas Linen. For other sizes, please refer to the yardage table in the PDF pattern to determine the required amount of fabric.
Matching sewing thread, 7 big buttons (3/4”- 1”), fusible interfacing
Scissors, pins, ruler, chalk, measuring tape, fabric marker, buttonhole foot, seam ripper, needle, sewing machine
You can access the multi-sized printable PDF pattern by following this link HERE. All seam allowances are included and are 3/8” (1 cm) unless otherwise specified. The model is wearing US size 6.
Remember to transfer all the notches onto your fabric.
Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, dry at room temperature. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.
1. Let’s start with the patch pocket. Follow the instructions in this detailed tutorial (the first method) and sew and attach your patch pocket to the left front. Refer to the placement marks on the pattern and topstitch the pocket in place.
2. Pin the two backs right sides together and sew the center back and the vent as explained in this step-by-step tutorial. Do not hem the coat yet (skip steps 2 and 3), we’ll show you how to do it later.
3. Pin and stitch the two fronts to the back right sides together at the shoulders using a 3/8” seam allowance. Finish the seams together with a serger or a zigzag stitch to prevent the fabric from fraying in the future, then press the seam towards the back.
4. Now pin and stitch your interfaced front and back facing pieces right sides together at the shoulders with the standard 3/8” seam allowance. Press the seams open. Finish the outer edges with your preferred method (using a serger or a zigzag stitch) to prevent the fabric from fraying.
Optional: to reduce bulk, you can trim off the interfacing seam allowances along the center front and neckline edges.
5. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of your collar pieces. Pin the upper and the under collars right sides together along the outer edges. Make sure the center back and shoulder notches match up. Stitch the collars together at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance, grade the edges down to ¼”, snip the corners to reduce bulk.
6. Turn the collar right side out, pop out the corners and press making sure the upper collar juts out a bit making your seam invisible. Run a line of topstitching 1/8” from the edge.
7. Pin the finished collar between the right sides of the bodice and the facing along the neckline from one notch to the other. The upper collar should be touching the right side of the facing. Make sure the center back and shoulder notches are aligned.
Now pin the facing to the jacket along the front opening. You’ll notice that the facing is missing the bottom seam allowance. This is intentional as it would allow to reduce bulk when hemming.
8. Stitch the pinned edges at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Trim the seams down to ¼”, clip along curves to release the tension.
9. Turn the facing to the inside and press along seam. Topstitch 1/8” from the edge along the front opening and neckline. Stitch the facing to the bodice along the outer edge to secure it in place and create a decorative detail.
Next up – the sleeves!
10. Pin and stitch (at a 3/8” seam allowance) the sleeves to the armholes right sides together matching the notches.
11. Finish the raw edges using your preferred method and press the seam allowance towards bodice.
12. Sew the sleeve tabs. Pin the two tab rectangles right sides together and stitch along the edges at a 3/8” seam allowance leaving one short end open. Trim the seam down to ¼” and clip the corners.
13. Turn the fabric right side and press. Topstitch along the sewn edges 1/8” from the edge.
14. Clip on your buttonhole foot and sew a buttonhole at the finished end of your tab.
Repeat for the other sleeve tab.
The coat has two inseam pockets on each side seam. The placement is indicated in the pattern. We have a detailed tutorial about sewing inseam pockets HERE if you are not familiar with the process.
15. Attach the pocket bags to the front and back pieces right sides touching. Serge/zigzag along the pocket edge. Press pocket away from the main fabric.
16. Pin the front and the corresponding back of your garment right sides together. Match up the underarms, the side seams and the pockets edges.
17. Insert the tab into the sleeve between the two notches indicated in the pattern. Align the raw edges and pin.
18. Stitch the side seams, the pocket bags and the underarms all in one seam at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance then finish with a serger or a zigzag stitch.
19. Pin the lower portion of the front/back pocket bags from the bottom to the pocket opening notch matching the seamlines. You can check if your seams match up perfectly by watching where the pin comes through on the other side. Stitch from the notch down to the bottom of the pocket bags in the crease of your seam. Remember to backstitch at both ends of your seam.
20. Press the seam allowance and the tab towards the front.
21. Finish the sleeve opening with a rolled hem. Fold the fabric twice to the wrong side (3/8” to 1”). Press, pin and edgestitch.
22. Fold the hem twice to the wrong side (1/2” to 1.5”), folding your hem over the facing. Press, pin and edgestitch.
23. Lastly, sew the buttonholes and attach the buttons. The buttonholes are sewn on the left front (the one with the patch pocket), and the buttons – on the right front.
For the buttonholes, you can follow our detailed tutorial HERE. As for the buttons, check our tutorial HERE for instructions. Overlap the button bands and place a pin into the center of each buttonhole. This is where you’ll need to attach the button.
24. Attach tab buttons on the sleeves at the spot indicated on the pattern.
25. Give your coat a good last press and you are all done!
We love seeing what you make! Don’t forget to share your pictures and tag your creations with #FabricsStoreMaraPattern hashtag.