Wrap skirts are among the easiest and most comfortable garments to sew and a very versatile style to wear. It goes with everything and everywhere, all year long. Our version has a little something special: it is cut on the bias and offers a beautiful drape while hugging your body in all the right places.

We chose to make Ida in our signature yarn-dyed medium weight linen. Not only because of its soft and luxurious feel, but also the texture: yarn-dyed threads cut on the bias give this simple skirt a distinctive appearance.

Materials

For US size 6 pictured in this tutorial: 2 yards of IL042 900 FS Premier Finish Medium Weight Linen

For larger sizes, please refer to the yardage table in the PDF pattern.

Matching sewing thread, lightweight fusible interfacing, one small button

Tools

Scissors, pins, ruler, chalk, fabric marker, measuring tape, needle, sewing machine

Difficulty

Beginner

Time

3-4 hours

Pattern

You can access the multi-sized printable PDF pattern by following this link HERE. All seam allowances are included. The model is wearing size US size 6.

Steps

Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, dry at room temperature. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.

1. Since we will be working with fabric cut on the bias, the very first thing to do is to stabilize the waist edges to avoid stretching. Staystitch along the waistline edges of the front/back skirt pieces and all six waistband pieces (the bottom edge) at a ¼” seam allowance.

2. Take your two fronts and finish the edges that will overlap with a rolled hem. Fold the raw edge ¼” to the wrong side and press. Then fold again 3/8” to the wrong side, press and pin. Make sure your two fronts are mirror images to each other.

3. Edgestitch the folded edges backstitching at the beginning and end of the seams.

4. For a clean finish on the inside of the skirt, the side seams are finished with French seams. We have a great tutorial about this technique where you’ll find detailed instructions.

Pin the skirt’s two fronts to the skirt back at the side seams wrong sides together and sew at a 1/4” (6 mm) seam allowance.

5. Then press the seams open, fold right sides together and press again Pin the right sides together and sew 3/8″ from the folded edge, enclosing the raw edges and finishing your seam. Press the finished seams flat to one side.

6. Take your two tie pieces and fold them in half lengthwise right sides together. Press.

Stitch the length of the tie then pivot at the end corner and finish the end leaving the other end open. Remember to backstitch at the start and finish of the seams. Clip the corners.

7. Turn the ties right sides out through the opening, use a sharp tool to turn the points and press.

8. Take your belt loop rectangle and press the two seam allowances to the wrong side. The two raw edges should meet at the center.

9. Fold it in half wrong sides together and edgestitch.

Time to assemble the waistband. It is a bit complicated since you need to figure out what goes where before sewing all the pieces together. The skirt ties on the right, so, there’s one tie that is attached to the waistband end of the left skirt front. The other tie is sewn into the side seam between the right skirt front and the back, on the outside of the waistband. And lastly, there’s a small button loop that is sewn into the other side seam (between the left skirt front and the back) on the inside of the waistband.

10. First, apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the three outer waistband pieces. To avoid bulky seams, you can trim off the seam allowances of the interfacing pieces.

11. Pin two of the three outer/interfaced waistband pieces (we are going to call them #1 and #2) right sides together and insert the raw edge of one of the ties between the two layers. Stitch together at a 3/8” seam allowance.

12. Trim the seam down to ¼” and press it open.

13. Take the third outer waistband piece (#3) and attach it to the raw end of the waistband (#2). Refer to the images below for the right order.

14. Take your two of the three inner/non-interfaced waistband pieces (we are going to call them #1 and #2) right sides together and insert the raw edge of the button loop between the two layers, ½” from the bottom edge. Stitch all the layers at a 3/8” seam allowance, trim and press.

15. Attach the third piece as shown below:

16. Press the bottom raw edge of the inner waistband 3/8” to the wrong side.

17. Now pin the outer waistband to the inner waistband along the top edge and the side seams right sides together and matching the raw edges and the seams. Insert the second tie raw edge between the layers of the end farthest from the first tie (the left front skirt).

18. Stitch around the pinned edges with a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance leaving the bottom edge open.

19. Clip the corners, finger press the seam allowances and turn the waistband right side out. Press.

20. Pin the right side of the outer waistband to the right side of your skirt matching the seams and the raw edges.

21. Stitch at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance backstitching at both ends. Press the waistband and the seam allowances away from the skirt.

22. Pin the inner waistband to the wrong side of the skirt covering the stitchline and matching the side seams.

23. Working from the right side of the skirt, topstitch in the ditch of the outer waistband catching the pinned/inner folded edge.

24. Last thing to do – attach the button on the outside of the waistband, on the right front skirt. Place it at the same level as your button loop, towards the bottom edge.