This week’s pattern is all about updating the classic style and showing you ways to transform the simplest shirt into a piece of contemporary clothing.
Constructed from our beautiful yarn-dyed linen, Anca is a minimalist collarless shirt featuring button closure, cuff sleeves and a slightly cropped silhouette with a high-low hem. We’ve also added front oversized patch pockets for a modern twist. All these small details are what make this design unique. Whether it is a new seam finish or a fun embellishment, take the time to make your next me-made item one of a kind.
2 yards of IL042 900 FS Premier Finish
Matching sewing thread, 10 1/2″-wide buttons
Pattern paper, pen, fabric marker, scissors, pins, seam ripper, chalk, ruler, buttonhole foot, needle, sewing machine
You can access the multi sized printable PDF shirt pattern by following this link HERE.
Please note that you’ll also need to cut one continuous strip of fabric on the bias (1.5″ wide x 26″ long) for the neckline binding. For more instructions on how to cut your fabric on the bias please follow this tutorial.
If you need help adjusting the pattern for a fuller bust, we have a great Full Bust Adjustment tutorial HERE.
Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, dry in room temperature. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.
Let’s start with the button bands. The medium weight linen we are working with is pretty crispy so we decided to not interface the button bands. However, if you are working with a lighter fabric or want to add some additional support to this area, consider interfacing the button bands with fusible interfacing.
1. Fold the center front’s raw edge 3/8″ (1 cm) to the wrong side and press. Then fold it another 3/4″ (2 cm) to form a button band. Press and pin.
2. Stitch as close to the folded edge as possible (remember to backstitch). Press the finished button bands to ensure the fabric sits flat.
Repeat with the other button band.
It’s time to attach the patch pockets to the front of your shirt. We have a great tutorial about patch pockets HERE that might offer some additional information on the process.
3. Serge or zigzag the bottom and side raw edges to prevent the fabric from fraying. Leave the top edge raw.
4. Fold the serged/zigzagged edges up 1/4″ towards the wrong side and press. Be careful to press the bottom corners so they do not stick out beyond the sides of the pocket.
5. To create the top fold, simply fold your fabric twice to the wrong side: first 1/4″ and then another 3/8″. Press and stitch in place.
6. Pin your pocket to the right side of your garment 8″ from the highest shoulder point and 2″ from the outer button band edge. Double check that both pockets are on the same level and then topstitch them in place 1/8″ from the fabric’s edge. Remember to backstitch and press when you’re finished.
7. Before you start assembling the front and the back pieces together, finish the bottom edge of your fronts & back pieces with a rolled hem. HERE is a detailed tutorial on how to finish curved edges with a rolled hem.
8. Pin the front and the back of your shirt right sides together at the shoulders.
9. Sew the shoulder seams right sides together at 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance, remember to backstitch. Trim the seam allowance down to 1/4″ (6 mm) and serge or zigzag the raw edges together to prevent the fabric from fraying. Press the seams flat folding the serged/zigzagged edges towards the back of your shirt.
10. Bind the neckline following this tutorial. Make sure that when you attach the binding the serged/zigzagged shoulder seam edge is folded towards the back of your dress.
When you come to the front opening, tuck in the ends of your bias band as shown below:
Now comes the time to sew the sleeve plackets and attach the cuffs.
11. Make a 4″ tall incision on the right side of your sleeves as shown below and bind them with bias tape. Follow this step-by-step tutorial that will guide through the process of sewing continuous bound sleeve plackets.
12. When you’re done binding the plackets, pin the sleeves to the armholes right sides together and your bias bound sleeve plackets towards the back of your shirt.
13. Sew at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Serge or zigzag the raw edges together to prevent the fabric from fraying. Press the serged/zigzagged seam allowances up towards the sleeves.
14. Pin the sleeves and the side seams right sides together.
15. Sew the pinned edges at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance (the underarm and the sides all in one seam) and finish the raw edges with a serger or a zigzag stitch. Press the seams flat folding the serged/zigzagged edges towards the back of your shirt.
Time to sew and attach the cuff.
16. Press the top edge of one of your cuff pieces 3/8″ (1 cm) to the wrong side and then align, pin and sew the raw edges around it.
17. Pleat your sleeve fabric to the width of your cuff (to the length between the two lines of stitching on your cuff opening) and secure the pleats by running a line of stitching over the pleats very close to the raw edge.
18. On the wrong side of the sleeve, pin the long cuff panel to the sleeve sandwiching the folded cuff panel in between but making sure not to catch it when you pin. Both wrong sides should be facing you.
Match up the finished sleeve edges to your cuff’s line of stitching so that when you turn your cuff right side out, they’ll be aligned.
19. Stitch the cuff to the sleeve making sure that the folded cuff edge is not caught.
20. Turn the cuff right side out and press the seam flat folding the seam allowances towards the cuff.
Use a dull pointed object like a chopstick to get the corners.
21. Pin the other raw edge to the right side of your sleeve covering the line of stitching and edgestitch through all layers.
22. To make sure that your sleeve cuff stays in place, topstitch around the curved outer edge 1/8″ from the edge.
23. Lastly, sew the buttonholes and attach the buttons.
Overlap the cuff and decide where you want to place your button. Make a small mark and sew a buttonhole and attach a button.
The number and the spacing on the front button bands are really up to you. If you want your buttons closer, just leave smaller gaps between them. We decided to space our buttons 2,5″ (6 cm) apart. Overlap the shirt and place a pin into the center of each buttonhole. This is where you’ll need to attach the buttons.
24. Give your shirt a good press and you are all done!