How to make historically accurate garments that fit a modern body
Is it true that you can’t make historically accurate garments that fit a modern body?
That’s exactly what I asked a historical specialist Kass Mc Gann and this is what she had to say :
Once upon a time, when I first got interested in historical clothing, someone told me that you couldn’t copy existing period garments because “people were shaped differently back then.” She fed me this line about how a reconstructed period garment wouldn’t fit a modern body, so we had to use modern patterning techniques to come up with a compromise.
I don’t like compromises. I didn’t want a dress that looked kinda like a period garment. I wanted a reconstruction of a period garment. So I looked further.
Shortly afterwards I had my first experience examining a period garment — the 16th century Irish dress known as the Shinrone Gown. Guess what. It was exactly my measurements — bust, waist, hips, and length! And I’m a pretty averagely shaped person. So out the window went the myth about modern people being different. This made me question other myths about historical clothing. And seven years later, I started Reconstructing History patterns to bring historically accurate patterns to the public.
Reconstructing History Patterns are different from other historic patterns in a number of ways. Instead of starting with a modern body block (a standard way of making patterns), I drape the garment on a real person just as it would have been done in period. Then I unsew the pieces, draft them on a computer, and grade them into all the sizes. This way the sizes are modern — based on pattern industry standards — but the pieces are 100% historically accurate. We also include both modern and period construction techniques in every pattern. This way you can make your outfit as historically accurately as you wish.
Reconstructing History Patterns also include extensive historical notes. We don’t just pronounce our patterns “period accurate” and expect you to believe us. We show you our research — step by step. When we make a pronouncement about what was worn and why it was done that way, you can trust that our statements are based on months and years of solid research and you can refer to these historical notes over and over again.
Additionally our patterns are printed on 20lb bond paper, not tissue, and shipped in reclosable 2mil plastic baggies so you can use them and abuse them over and over again.
Well thank you Kass for clearing up that Urban Legend!
To get your hands on these wonderful patterns filled with accessorizing instructions, historical notes and sewing suggestions for beginners and experts you should click here.
Thank you,
Oksana
Fabrics-store.com
2 Comments
Wishteria
It is important to stay within the constraints of accuracy as much as possible and be comfortable in order to enjoy wearing it.
The two biggest mistakes people make is choosing fabrics that do not breathe and would not have existed in the period, and not researching the options available.
If you find that your pattern does not fit, try tracing a ‘working copy’ of your pattern pieces, make a mock up of the pattern from cotton or linen first. This way, you can try it on, pin the garment, and then mark on the fabric to show the subtle changes needed, Once you’ve done these steps, make up a new, personalized pattern with butcher paper. Modifying a historical pattern to fit your body does not need to be intimidating or frustrating. Choose period correct fabrics and take your time; make a working copy of your pattern; make a mock up to make alterations on, and then, make a new copy of your pattern reflecting the alterations. Now, when you cut your expensive fabric, you can do so, feeling more confident that you won’t make expensive mistakes.
Jenia
Using one example of one dress to disprove ideas about human bodies in many areas over hundreds of years is not valid. There are a range of answers and examples to whether bodies in the past were different. It depend on place, time, nutrition, class, habitual garments (ie, stays worn from childhood that shape the chest), and fashion, especially if the garment is meant to shape or just cover the body. Most patterns taken from period garments fit people, it’s more that they are not comfortable with how it feels and what it does to their bodies.