This tutorial is to support the dart instructions in the Nico Pattern booklet found on page 23.
Transfer the dot markings from the Front (Piece A) to your fabric using your preferred method. This tutorial uses small red dots with a fabric pen.
Fold the upper strap down to align the dart edges with wrong sides together. Pin or clip in place.
Sew the dart legs together using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Begin from the side seam edge and sew towards the bust. Continue sewing with a 1/4″ seam allowance until you reach the end of the fabric. Backstitch or tie threads in a knot to secure.
Note: Do not sew to the dot marking yet. Just sew a 1/4″ seam in this step.
This is how your first seam will look on the other side. Note how far away the stitching line is still from the dot marking.
To complete the French Seam bust dart, fold the dart right sides together enclosing the raw edges of your seam allowance in the fold and aligning with the pattern marking. Press.
Sew with a 3/8″ seam allowance ending at the dot marking.
To avoid pointy darts, there are two options: 1) Curve the last few stitches towards the fold of the fabric near the dart point. Use a gentle inwards curve. Or 2) When you reach the dart marking, sew a few stitches past it right along the edge of the fold.
That’s it! Be sure to press your dart over a curved surface like a tailors ham or a rolled-up towel.
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