Cass Wide Leg Culottes Tutorial and Free Pattern
As advertised by nearly every minimalist-chic clothing brand, culottes are making a major comeback and becoming an indispensable wardrobe item. But there is one style the fashion world is most crazy about – the high-waisted, wide-leg culottes. Charged with the ability to skim over curvy hips and elongate the silhouette, the wide-leg culottes are as comfortable as they are versatile.
If you are interested in trying out this cool style without paying the store price tag, then our Cass Culottes sewing pattern is for you! With its high rise, wide legs, hidden inseam pockets, and elastic waistband, it is probably the most comfortable pair of culottes you’ll ever own.
Follow this easy tutorial and sew your own pair of custom made culottes that look great on you!
Materials
For our sample size XS pictured in this tutorial we used 2 yards of 4C22 NARURAL Softened Heavy Weight Linen
For other sizes, please refer to the yardage table in the PDF pattern to determine the required amount of fabric.
Matching sewing thread, 1 7/8” to 2”-wide elastic.
Tools
Scissors, pins, ruler, chalk, measuring tape, seam ripper, safety pin, sewing machine
Difficulty
Beginner
Sewing Time
3-4 hours
Pattern
You can access the multi-sized printable PDF pattern by following this link HERE. All seam allowances are included and are 3/8” unless otherwise specified. The model is wearing size XS.
Remember to transfer all the notches onto your fabric.
Steps
Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, dry at room temperature. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.
1. The very first thing to do is to attach the inseam pockets. Follow this step-by-step tutorial and attach your pockets. Prepare your pockets by serging along the outer curve. Match the top and bottom edge of each pocket to the pocket notches in the pattern and sew right sides together at a 3/8” seam.
2. Complete the rest of the steps in the tutorial to assemble your pockets and side seams.
3. Press the pockets and the seam allowances towards the front leg. Turn the garment right side facing up and sew a 1/4″ topstitch along the front side of the pocket opening. Then topstitch 1/4″ along the remaining edges of the outseam, from waist to pocket opening and from opening to hem. This will secure the seam allowances to the front leg and add decorative detail.
4. Reinforce the pocket openings with two bartacks.
5. Pin each pant front to the corresponding pant back at the inseam right sides together and sew at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Serge or zigzag the raw edges together to prevent the fabric from fraying.
6. Press the seams flat folding the serged/zigzagged edges towards the back of the culottes. Topstitch ¼” from the seamline.
7. Turn the right leg right side out and slip it into the left leg, right side to right side.
8. Pin the crotch seams together matching the side seams and inseams.
9. Sew along the crotch seam at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Serge or zigzag the raw edges together and press the seam allowances towards the left leg.
10. Topstitch ¼” from the seamline along the front and back rise.
11. To create the casing for the elastic, fold the raw edge 3/8” to the wrong side and press. Then press another 2 1/8” and pin in place.
12. Stitch around the lower edge of the casing, 1/16” from the edge, leaving a small (about 2” wide) opening at the side seam for the elastic to be inserted. Remember to backstitch at both ends.
13. Using your safety pin, insert the elastic (cut to a comfortable length plus 1” seam allowance), stitch the elastic ends together and close the opening.
14. Sew the opening closed with the same seam allowance used before. Make sure not to sew into the elastic itself!
15. Pull gently on the waistband fabric so that the joined elastic ends slip inside the casing. Distribute the gathers evenly.
16. To create the tiered effect, divide the casing into three equal parts and run two lines of topstitching stretching the elastic as you go.
17. Lastly, hem the legs by folding the fabric twice to the wrong side. First, fold 1/2″, then another 1 1/2″, press and pin in place.
18. Edgestitch 1/16” from the folded edge.
Congratulations! You have successfully completed your pair of culottes!
We love seeing what you make! Don’t forget to share your pictures and tag your creations with #FabricsStoreCassPattern hashtag.
Whether you are looking for natural or bright colors, heavier or lighter linen, we have something for everyone. Browse our selection of linen fabrics and find the color that inspires you for this project!
Leave a reply
Related posts
TUTORIAL: How to Make Waffle Bath Towels
Is there anything better than getting out of the bath or shower and wrapping yourself up in a soft towel? While your daily bathing routine might not feel luxurious, our waffle weave bath towels can change that. To turn your bathroom into a fancy spa, just follow this tutorial and make a full set of…
Ancient Meets Modern: Diaghilev and De Chirico
Italian painter Giorgio de Chirico and ballet director Sergei Diaghilev only worked together on one Ballets Russes production, but their union would prove momentous and life-changing for both. Their collaboration was significant for Diaghilev because it was the last production he would produce before his death later that same year. It was also important for…
FS Colour Series: Nightshadow Blue Linen and Ferdinand Hodler’s Dark Mountains
Swiss Symbolist painter Ferdinand Hodler’s art is a homage to the wonders of the Swiss landscape, conveying jagged, snow-peaked mountains and glossy mirrored lakes with flat panels of vivid, jewel-like colour. The indigo of NIGHTSHADOW BLUE Linen was his favourite colour for conveying depth and shadow, which he brought in to describe shadowy mountain ranges…
FS Colour Series: BLUE BAYOU Inspired by Lawrence Alma-Tadema’s Grecian Sea
Sir Lawrence Alma-Tadema was a dreamy romanticist, painting idealised historical scenes set amongst the marble pillars and iridescent light of ancient Greece. Cool shades of aqua blue like BLUE BAYOU Linen brought crisp, fresh lightness into his scenes, particularly when combined with the glossy marble architecture of the ancient world. In amongst these tranquil and…
Hitomezashi Sashiko on the Ashton Top: Part TWO
This tutorial will focus on the stitching of Sashiko on the fabric pieces cut out for the front and back bodices of the Ashton Top by Helen’s Closet. These fabric pieces have been prepared for Sashiko stitching by drawing 0.5cm x 0.5cm grids on them. For my preferred method for drawing a grid on dark-coloured…
Latest Posts
21 Comments
Jayoung Suh
I am an absolute beginner and really want to try this one as my first project. Is there any way I can find an actual pattern for this pair of pants? I would greatly appreciate any help!
Nicole Combs
The Pattern section (just above the Steps section with the instructions) has the link. It’s easy to miss, because it’s a short one word hyperlink… In the sentence that says “ You can access the multi-sized printable PDF pattern by following this link HERE,” click on the underlined word HERE, and that will take you to the pattern. : )
Lauren Gates
Here is the link 🙂
https://fabrics-store.com/sewing-patterns/cass-cass-wide-leg-culottes
Carol Rieger
I love these pants, but have one piece of advice which for experienced sewers really doesn’t need to be said; Measure and try-on, measure and try-on. I saw a post that one person thought these pants were a bit snug in the hips for the pull-up and made a note of that. I usually wear a 12 as I am about 5.5″ and around 160 lbs. I made the 12/14 and it was sooooo big I had to take in at least an inch on every seam and they are still very generous. I wish I had cut to the size 10. I made them with a gifted piece of heavier linen. Beautiful drape and no issues on bulkiness in the waistband…but wowie….big for me. I may take them in again, except with the inset pockets it makes the shaping of the hip area difficult to adjust.
Cindy Lin
Hi! I’m confused by the first part of step 3: “Press the pockets and the seam allowances towards the front leg. Turn the garment right side facing up and sew a 1/4? topstitch along the front side of the pocket opening.”
I’m not sure how to physically do that without stitching the pockets close..
On the other hand, this is my second time making these and the first time I skipped step 3 entirely. The first one turned out so well I’m in love!
Lauren Gates
Hello Cindy, You will need to open up your pocket and place just the outer layer under the machine. Its takes a bit of maneuvering, but it is possible to do 🙂 If you need more help, please email me: Ask@fabrics-store.com
Cindy Lin
Hi Lauren, thanks, the pocket opening just about fit the arm of the machine, phew!
Lauren Gates
I’m glad Cindy. I was also sewing something with this style pocket this weekend, and it is quite a fiddly thing to sew, but looks great once it’s done! I’m glad I was able to help. Enjoy your culottes 🙂
kim Hansing
Also, how do you determine the right and wrong side of Linen? I’m using the signature finish
Susan Hagloch
I often sew pants with fabric that is the same on both sides. I put a silver safety pin on the left-side fabric pieces, and a gold one on the right side. The clasp side of the pin is the right (outside) of the garment, and the pin-through is the wrong side. Be sure to mark all of your fabric pieces.
kim Hansing
Hello, I’m just getting started with this pattern. what does cut 2 “face to face” mean?
Christy Boyken
it means to fold the fabric right sides together. Fold the pretty sides toward each other, and then pin the pattern piece on top and cut so the you have two pieces that mirror each.
Jinx Gilbert
Hi. for some reason I can not find the pattern for this! Could anyone please assist me please? ??
Lauren Gates
Hi Jinx,
I’m going to send you an email that should help 🙂
McKenzie Reints
Loving all the pants tutorials. Just a pattern suggestion, but it would be great to learn how to do the on trends jogger pants and a utility/boiler suit made specifically for woven fabric such as linen. Tons on knits tutorials out there, but none for woven. these two types of garments would be great to learn!
Kei Mag
i am a beginner but i found these instructions confusing and had to go to youtube. there are also no explicit instructions on when to sew the sides. making shorts instead of pants, hopefully it works out!
Lauren Gates
Hi Kei, I’ve sent you an email. You can find the instructions for sewing the side seams in the tutorial for sewing the pockets. It is step 9.
https://blog.fabrics-store.com/2016/10/14/sewing-glossary-how-to-sew-inseam-pockets-tutorial/
Jaime Delano
The description says the model is wearing size XS, but the pattern has numeric duo sizes. Do you know what size she is wearing?
Dr Lucille Craig
Thanks Lauren, I have to look at the pattern, but I think I would just adjust the the height of the waistband ‘fold over’, therefore not have to compensate elsewhere. Right now I am making a caftan with asphalt 5.3 oz,
Thanks for your help.
Lucille
Dr Lucille Craig
CAN THESE CULOTTES BE MADE WITH DRAWSTRING, RATHER THAN ELASTIC?
Lauren Gates
Yes, I’m sure you can Lucille. I would adjust the width of the waistband to make it thinner so that you don’t have a lot of excess fabric that bunches up below your drawstring. From what you remove from the waistband, be sure to add to the length of the crotch and top of the pant. Then add buttonholes to the CF for the drawstring to come out of.
We’d love to see how your drawstring variation looks, so be sure to share it.