Cass Wide Leg Culottes Tutorial and Free Pattern
As advertised by nearly every minimalist-chic clothing brand, culottes are making a major comeback and becoming an indispensable wardrobe item. But there is one style the fashion world is most crazy about – the high-waisted, wide-leg culottes. Charged with the ability to skim over curvy hips and elongate the silhouette, the wide-leg culottes are as comfortable as they are versatile.
If you are interested in trying out this cool style without paying the store price tag, then our Cass Culottes sewing pattern is for you! With its high rise, wide legs, hidden inseam pockets, and elastic waistband, it is probably the most comfortable pair of culottes you’ll ever own.
Follow this easy tutorial and sew your own pair of custom made culottes that look great on you!
Materials
For our sample size XS pictured in this tutorial we used 2 yards of 4C22 NARURAL Softened Heavy Weight Linen
For other sizes, please refer to the yardage table in the PDF pattern to determine the required amount of fabric.
Matching sewing thread, 1 7/8” to 2”-wide elastic.
Tools
Scissors, pins, ruler, chalk, measuring tape, seam ripper, safety pin, sewing machine
Difficulty
Beginner
Sewing Time
3-4 hours
Pattern
You can access the multi-sized printable PDF pattern by following this link HERE. All seam allowances are included and are 3/8” unless otherwise specified. The model is wearing size XS.
Remember to transfer all the notches onto your fabric.
Steps
Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, dry at room temperature. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.
1. The very first thing to do is to attach the inseam pockets. Follow this step-by-step tutorial and attach your pockets. Prepare your pockets by serging along the outer curve. Match the top and bottom edge of each pocket to the pocket notches in the pattern and sew right sides together at a 3/8” seam.
2. Complete the rest of the steps in the tutorial to assemble your pockets and side seams.
3. Press the pockets and the seam allowances towards the front leg. Turn the garment right side facing up and sew a 1/4″ topstitch along the front side of the pocket opening. Then topstitch 1/4″ along the remaining edges of the outseam, from waist to pocket opening and from opening to hem. This will secure the seam allowances to the front leg and add decorative detail.
4. Reinforce the pocket openings with two bartacks.
5. Pin each pant front to the corresponding pant back at the inseam right sides together and sew at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Serge or zigzag the raw edges together to prevent the fabric from fraying.
6. Press the seams flat folding the serged/zigzagged edges towards the back of the culottes. Topstitch ¼” from the seamline.
7. Turn the right leg right side out and slip it into the left leg, right side to right side.
8. Pin the crotch seams together matching the side seams and inseams.
9. Sew along the crotch seam at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Serge or zigzag the raw edges together and press the seam allowances towards the left leg.
10. Topstitch ¼” from the seamline along the front and back rise.
11. To create the casing for the elastic, fold the raw edge 3/8” to the wrong side and press. Then press another 2 1/8” and pin in place.
12. Stitch around the lower edge of the casing, 1/16” from the edge, leaving a small (about 2” wide) opening at the side seam for the elastic to be inserted. Remember to backstitch at both ends.
13. Using your safety pin, insert the elastic (cut to a comfortable length plus 1” seam allowance), stitch the elastic ends together and close the opening.
14. Sew the opening closed with the same seam allowance used before. Make sure not to sew into the elastic itself!
15. Pull gently on the waistband fabric so that the joined elastic ends slip inside the casing. Distribute the gathers evenly.
16. To create the tiered effect, divide the casing into three equal parts and run two lines of topstitching stretching the elastic as you go.
17. Lastly, hem the legs by folding the fabric twice to the wrong side. First, fold 1/2″, then another 1 1/2″, press and pin in place.
18. Edgestitch 1/16” from the folded edge.
Congratulations! You have successfully completed your pair of culottes!
We love seeing what you make! Don’t forget to share your pictures and tag your creations with #FabricsStoreCassPattern hashtag.
Whether you are looking for natural or bright colors, heavier or lighter linen, we have something for everyone. Browse our selection of linen fabrics and find the color that inspires you for this project!
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11 Comments
kim Hansing
Also, how do you determine the right and wrong side of Linen? I’m using the signature finish
kim Hansing
Hello, I’m just getting started with this pattern. what does cut 2 “face to face” mean?
Jinx Gilbert
Hi. for some reason I can not find the pattern for this! Could anyone please assist me please? ??
Lauren Gates
Hi Jinx,
I’m going to send you an email that should help 🙂
McKenzie Reints
Loving all the pants tutorials. Just a pattern suggestion, but it would be great to learn how to do the on trends jogger pants and a utility/boiler suit made specifically for woven fabric such as linen. Tons on knits tutorials out there, but none for woven. these two types of garments would be great to learn!
Kei Mag
i am a beginner but i found these instructions confusing and had to go to youtube. there are also no explicit instructions on when to sew the sides. making shorts instead of pants, hopefully it works out!
Lauren Gates
Hi Kei, I’ve sent you an email. You can find the instructions for sewing the side seams in the tutorial for sewing the pockets. It is step 9.
https://blog.fabrics-store.com/2016/10/14/sewing-glossary-how-to-sew-inseam-pockets-tutorial/
Jaime Delano
The description says the model is wearing size XS, but the pattern has numeric duo sizes. Do you know what size she is wearing?
Dr Lucille Craig
Thanks Lauren, I have to look at the pattern, but I think I would just adjust the the height of the waistband ‘fold over’, therefore not have to compensate elsewhere. Right now I am making a caftan with asphalt 5.3 oz,
Thanks for your help.
Lucille
Dr Lucille Craig
CAN THESE CULOTTES BE MADE WITH DRAWSTRING, RATHER THAN ELASTIC?
Lauren Gates
Yes, I’m sure you can Lucille. I would adjust the width of the waistband to make it thinner so that you don’t have a lot of excess fabric that bunches up below your drawstring. From what you remove from the waistband, be sure to add to the length of the crotch and top of the pant. Then add buttonholes to the CF for the drawstring to come out of.
We’d love to see how your drawstring variation looks, so be sure to share it.