In our previous tutorial we have shown you how to draft and sew a partial placket the easy way. So we thought that today would be a good time to practice your new skill and make a simple long sleeve placket shirt dress.
With its crisp mandarin collar, a high-low hem and contrasting buttons, this shirt dress is a great basic that you’ll want to wear season after season. Crafted from pure softened linen, this shirt feels luxuriously soft and is really comfortable to wear paired with your favorite jeans, leggings or as a tunic.
Matching sewing thread, fusible interfacing, 5-6 buttons
Pattern paper, scissors, ruler, pins, chalk, fabric marker, pen, buttonhole foot, needle, seam ripper, sewing machine
You can access the shirt pattern by following this link HERE. Remember to add seam allowances as indicated in the pattern. The diagram shows the pattern for US size 6-8 (UK size 10-12). If you need help grading your pattern, please follow this tutorial.
Please note that the mandarin collar pattern is not included in the diagram as we strongly recommend to draft your own collar to get it right. Follow the detailed instructions in this tutorial that will take you through the drafting process.
If you need help adjusting the pattern for a fuller bust, we have a great Full Bust Adjustment tutorial HERE.
Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, dry in room temperature. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.
1. Sew the partial placket onto the front of your shirt by following this step-by-step tutorial. Don’t sew the buttonholes and attach the buttons yet, you’ll need to add the collar first.
2. Pin the front and the back of your shirt right sides together at the shoulders.
3. Sew the shoulder seams right sides together at 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance, remember to backstitch. Trim the seam allowance down to 1/4″ (6 mm) and serge or zigzag the raw edges together to prevent the fabric from fraying. Press the seams flat folding the serged/zigzagged edges towards the back of your shirt.
4. Attach the mandarin collar following our detailed tutorial HERE.
The spacing is really up to you but we recommend not to exceed 2,5″ interval between the buttons.
6. Pin the sleeves to the armholes right sides together.
7. Sew at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Serge or zigzag the raw edges together to prevent the fabric from fraying. Press the serged/zigzagged seam allowances up towards the sleeves.
8. Pin the sleeves and the side seams right sides together. Sew the pinned edges at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance and finish the raw edges with a serger or a zigzag stitch. Press the seams flat folding the serged/zigzagged edges towards the back of your shirt.
9. Finish the sleeve openings with a rolled hem. Fold the fabric twice towards the wrong side, 3/8″ to 1/2 inch, press, pin and stitch.
Lastly, you need to finish the curved bottom hem with a rolled hem. In order to maintain the perfect curve, we recommend a very simple trick, which consists in using a line of stitching as your guide.
12. Sew a line of stitching 3/8″ from the raw edge, all along the hemline.
13. Using that line of stitching as your guide, press the hem in.
14. Now press the hemline in again, this time using the raw edge as your guide. Pin into place and stitch.
Give your shirt a good last press and you are all done!
Check out our selection of linen fabrics and see which color inspires you for this beautiful project!