Feminine and vintage-inspired, the Luciana Faux-Wrap Dress is an effortless instant outfit that is sure to flatter any figure. It has all the benefits of a classic wrap dress (think sensual deep V-neck) and features an elasticated waist for more comfort, dolman sleeves and two convenient front patch pockets. It also includes a detachable belt to accentuate your waist and enhance the style. Shoulder yokes allow you to play with color and print blocking.
For this dress, we chose our beautiful yarn died medium weight linen with black and white stripes that reminded us of country living in Provence, lavender fields and hot days by the sea. Stripes are so summery and never go out of style. Plus, they offer so many possibilities for playing with fabric and the direction of the stripes to create visual interest.
Luciana is easy to make and wear, just slip it on and you are ready to go!
For our sample US size 6 pictured in this tutorial we used 2 yards of IL042 FS Premier Finish Medium Weight Linen
For other sizes, please refer to the yardage table in the PDF pattern to determine the required amount of fabric.
Matching sewing thread, ½”-wide elastic
Scissors, pins, ruler, chalk, measuring tape, fabric marker, safety pin, seam ripper, sewing machine
You can access the multi-sized printable PDF pattern by following this link HERE. All seam allowances are included. The model is wearing US size 6.
Remember to transfer all the notches onto your fabric.
Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, dry at room temperature. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.
1. To start, staystitch the front neckline/wrap edges ¼” away from the edge. This will prevent the fabric from stretching since it’s cut on the bias.
2. Gather front shoulder edge between the two notches. If you don’t know how to gather fabric, you’ll find all the answers in this step-by-step tutorial. Use contrasting color thread for basting stitches.
3. With right sides together, pin front to outer yoke at the shoulder seam and matching the notches. Your gathered area should fit perfectly between the yoke notches. Then take the inner yoke and pin its right side to the front’s wrong side sandwiching the bodice between the two yokes. Make sure not to confuse yoke’s neckline and armhole edges. The neckline is slightly curvy while the armhole is straight.
4. Stitch all three layers together at a 3/8” seam allowance. Then press the yokes and seam allowances up and away from bodice.
Repeat for the other front.
5. Now pin the other edge of the outer yoke to your back bodice right sides together. Stitch the two at a 3/8” seam allowance and press the yoke and the seam allowances away from the back.
6. Press the seam allowance of your inside yoke ¼” to the wrong side and pin it to the inside of your shirt back. Make sure that the folded edge overlaps the seam line by a couple of millimeters so that when you stitch from the front it catches all layers neatly. Make sure to smooth out any wrinkles before you pin.
7. Working from the right side of your shirt, topstitch along the yoke seam in the crease of your outer yoke making sure to catch the edge of the inner yoke.
8. Finish the entire neckline/front wrap edge with a narrow rolled hem. Press your fabric twice to the wrong side (1/4” to ¼”), pin and edgestitch.
9. Sew the side seams right sides together and finish the raw edges with your preferred method (serge or zigzag the seam allowances together) to prevent the fabric from fraying. Press seams toward the back.
10. Finish the armholes with a ¼”-wide rolled hem (just like you did for the neckline).
11. Lap right front overlap matching the center front notches and aligning the waistline edges. Baste the two in place ¼” from the edge.
Your bodice is now ready, time to sew the skirt and attach the pockets.
12. Fold the top edges of your patch pockets twice to the wrong side and edgestitch. Serge/zigzag the remaining raw edges.
13. Attach the pockets to the skirt following the instructions in this detailed tutorial (the first method). For the exact placement of your pockets refer to the markings in the pattern.
14. Pin and stitch front and back skirts right sides together at the side seams. Finish the seams with your preferred method (serge or zigzag the raw edges together) to prevent fabric from fraying. Press towards the back.
15. Pin the skirt to the bodice right sides together matching the side seams. Stitch at a 1” seam allowance. Press the seam allowances up towards the bodice.
16. To create the casing for the elastic, you need to trim the bodice’s seam allowance down to 3/8” and press the skirt’s raw edge 1/4” to the wrong side.
17. On the wrong side of the dress, pin your casing to the bodice and stitch along the folded edge beginning and ending at the side seam and leave a small 1”-1.5”-wide gap to insert the elastic.
18. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and pull it through the casing.
19. Lap one elastic end over the over and anchor the edges with several lines of stitching through all layers. Pull gently on the waistband fabric so that the joined elastic ends slip inside the casing. Distribute the gathers evenly. Then sew the opening closed with the same seam allowance used before. Make sure not to sew into the elastic itself!
20. Hem the skirt by folding your fabric twice to the wrongs side, first 3/8” then another 1/2″. Press, pin and edgestitch.
The body of your dress is now complete, the last thing to do is to sew the belt and attach two belt loops at the side seams.
21. To sew the belt, join the two short ends of your rectangles right sides together. Press the seam open.
22. Then fold your fabric in half lengthwise with right sides touching. Leaving one end open, stitch along the long edge (1/4” away from the raw edge) and then pivot at the end corner and finish the end. Backstitch at the start and finish of the seam. Clip the corner.
23. Turn the belt right side out, use a sharp tool or a chopstick to turn the corners and press. Tuck in the raw edges into the opening, then stitch along the perimeter of your belt 1/8” from the edge to close the opening and prevent the belt from twisting in the future.
24. Lastly, sew and attach belt loops at the side seams.
Give your dress a good last press and you are all done!
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