With its unique honeycomb weave, the waffle weave linen gets its name from the partial resemblance to the hexagonal honey comb cells. This type of textured linen is soft but does not stretch out too much. It breathes well, dries fast, and feels super airy and thin.
Even though waffle weave fabrics are often associated with home sewing projects like kitchen linens or plush towels and bathrobes, we often use this fabric to add texture to our garments, just like in our next tutorial! A relaxed, boxy shirt with two large pockets and a buttoned up front. So soft and comfortable, it feels somewhat like wearing your favorite blanket. Definitely easy to wear lounging around the house, but equally casually chic when paired with jeans and heels.
2 yards of IL015 Middle Weight 100% Linen
Matching sewing thread, 7-8 buttons
Pattern paper, scissors, ruler, pins, chalk, fabric marker, pen, buttonhole foot, needle, seam ripper, sewing machine
You can access the top pattern by following this link HERE. Remember to add seam allowances as indicated in the pattern. The diagram shows the pattern for US size 6-10 (UK size 10-14). If you need help grading your pattern, please follow this tutorial and if you would like to add some side darts to accommodate a larger bust, we have a great FBA tutorial.
Note that you’ll also need to cut a strip of fabric on the bias that is 1.5″ wide and approximately 25″ long for neckline binding. For detailed instructions on how to cut your bias tape please follow this tutorial.
Note:’ Make sure to wash the weave one or two times before the initial use to ensure that the fibers are softened enough so that they will have increased absorbency. Tumble dry the fabric until it is still slightly moist, dry at room temperature. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.
Let’s start with the front inseam pockets.
1. Serge/zigzag the long raw edges of your pockets to prevent the fabric from fraying in the future.
2. Pin your pocket raw edges to the front’s top and bottom panels right sides together and 2.75″ (7 cm) away from the sides.
3. Stitch the pinned edges together at a 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance. Remember to backstitch.
4. Serge/zigzag the raw edges together from side seam to center front seam. Press the pockets away from the top.
5. Pin the front’s top and bottom panels right sides together. Match up the pocket sides and pin.
6. Sew along the pinned edges including the pocket edges at a 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance (all in one seam). Remember to backstitch.
Press the seam flat folding the serged/zigzagged edges and the pocket towards the bottom hem of your top.
7. Repeat for the other pocket.
With your pockets now attached, you can move to the next step and form the button bands.
8. Fold the center front left and right raw edges twice to the wrong side (3/8″ (1 cm) to 3/4″ (1.3 cm)). Press and pin.
9. From the wrong side of the fabric, stitch a straight line as close as possible to the inner folded edge. Repeat for the other side.
You have now created identical button bands along the entire center front of the top that will create a 3/4″ overlap when buttoned up.
Do not sew the buttonholes and attach the buttons yet. We’ll do this when the neckline and the bottom hem are finished.
10. You can finally assemble the front and the back of your shirt by pinning them at the shoulder seams right sides together.
11. Sew at a 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance and remember to backstitch at both ends. Trim the seam allowance down to 1/4″ (6 mm) and serge/zigzag the raw edges together to prevent them from fraying. Press the serged edges towards the back.
12. Finish your neckline with a bias band as explained in this step-by-step tutorial. Fold the ends of your bias band to the wrong side to match the edges of your button bands, and stitch the band in place all along the neckline.
Now is a good time to attach the sleeves.
13. Pin the sleeves to the armholes right sides together.
14. Sew at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance, then trim down to 1/4″ (6 mm) and serge/zigzag the raw edges together to prevent them from fraying. Press the serged/zigzagged seam allowances up towards the sleeves.
15. Pin the sleeves and the side seams right sides together.
16. Sew the pinned edges at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance and finish the raw edges with a serger or a zigzag stitch. Press the seams flat folding the serged/zigzagged edges towards the back of your shirt.
17. Finish the sleeve openings with a rolled hem. Fold the fabric twice towards the wrong side, 3/8″ (1 cm) to 1″ (2,5 cm). Press, pin, and stitch.
18. Repeat the previous step to finish the bottom hem of your shirt. Make sure that your left and right button bands are even.
Lastly, sew the buttonholes and attach the buttons.
19. Start by making your buttonholes following this tutorial HERE. The number and the spacing are really up to you. If you want your buttons closer, just leave smaller gaps between them. We decided to space our buttons 2,5” (6 cm) apart.
Overlap the button bands and place a pin into the center of each buttonhole. This is where you’ll need to attach the buttons. Here’s a very easy tutorial on how to attach the buttons.
Give your finished a good last press and you are all done!