Want to stay on-trend without going broke? Then you will love our new sewing tutorial – a relaxed open-front linen jacket with kimono-inspired collar.
This minimalist basic is trending in all our favorite stores right now so instead of spending hundreds of dollars on something so simple, why not make one yourself? With its modern and contemporary styling, this stunning navy linen jacket is guaranteed to impress whatever the season.
We used 2 yards of Midnight Blue Softened but you can use any of the 1C64 Softened medium weight linen
Matching sewing thread
Pattern paper, scissors, ruler, pins, marker or chalk
You can access the pattern by following this link HERE . Remember to add seam allowances as indicated in the pattern.
This jacket is intentionally loose and will fit quite a range of sizes: from XS to M. If you need a larger size, then we’d recommend adding a couple of inches to the sides of the front and back panels and some extra volume to the sleeves. If you need help grading your pattern, please follow this tutorial.
To make sure that you have enough fabric length for a continuous kimono collar band, we recommend cutting the collar first and then pinning and cutting the rest of the pattern pieces.
Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, dry at room temperature. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.
1. Let’s start by pinning the two back pieces right sides together at the center seam.
2. Following this very easy tutorial, finish the center back seam with a flat-felled seam.
3. Take your pocket panels and finish the upper edges with a baby hem. A step-by-step tutorial on how to sew a baby hem can be found HERE. Make sure your panels are mirror images to each other before you start sewing.
4. Pin the bottom hem of your pocket panels to the bottom hem of your front pieces. Place the right side of the pocket on top of the wrong side of the bodice panel (so two wrong sides are facing you). Once again, make sure that everything is lined up correctly and facing the right way: the front two pieces, as well as the pocket panels, should be mirror images to each other.
5. Sew the pinned edges together at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance and then trim to 1/4″.
6. Press the seams open and then fold the pocket panel over the bodice and press again. The idea is that the raw edges are hidden inside the pocket and later enclosed by topstitching the entire bottom hem of the jacket.
7. Let’s create the pocket openings by measuring 3” from each side. Place contrasting pins to mark the beginning and the end of the pocket opening.
8. Topstitch both sides leaving the pocket opening unstitched. Try to stitch directly over the baby hem stitch line and remember to backstitch.
It’s time to assemble the jacket.
9. Pin the two front panels to the back panel right sides together. Shoulder and side seams. Note how the back’s hem is longer than the front. This is totally normal as the back will later be finished with a rolled hem to match the front’s length.
10. Stitch at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance, then trim, serge/zigzag the raw edges together to prevent the fabric from fraying in the future.
- Press the seams flat folding the serged/zigzagged edge towards the back.
The next steps are to attach the collar to the entire neckline opening.
12. Take your collar strip and turn two long raw edges and one short 3/8″ (1 cm) towards the wrong side.
13. Then fold it in half lengthwise.
14. Working from the right side, pin one unfolded seam allowance around the entire neck opening right sides together.
15. Stitch around the neckline in the inner crease of the collar band. Trim the seam allowance to a 1/4″.
16. Press the collar band away from the jacket.
17. Turn the collar band to the other side of the neckline. Pin it in place encasing all the raw edges within. Do not trim the excess collar yet.
18. In one continuous line of stitching, close the collar opening at the folded end and attach the other side of the collar to the neckline by topstitching in the ditch of the existing seam line.
19. Now you can trim the excess fabric so that you still have a 3/8 seam allowance that you’ll need to tuck in and close.
Your collar is now attached and you can proceed to the last steps – finishing the sleeves and the bottom hem.
20. Fold the back’s bottom hem twice towards the wrong side to match the front length.
21. Stitch around the entire bottom hem (front and back, but not the collar) to create a continuous bottom hem stitch line.
22. Lastly, finish the sleeve openings by folding your fabric twice towards the wrong side and stitch.
Give your jacket a good press and you are all done!