How I Pick My Patterns
Some of us edge into garment sewing from a quilting or crafting habit, or perhaps someone’s child needs a costume. I’ve seen people hang a piece of fabric on themselves and start cutting. I’ve had all of those starts, but none of it stuck until I picked up my first dress pattern.
Years down the line, lots of money wasted, lots of money well spent, plus hundreds of memade pieces behind me, I wanted to share my process for creating a great pattern stash.
First comes the inspiration
Almost all of the patterns I find, I find on Instagram. Whether it’s following my favourite pattern makers or keeping an eye on certain hashtags (like #memadeeveryday or #twopiecesetacular) it’s a huge source of inspiration. When I find a pattern I like, I check the pattern hashtag to see all the versions that other makers have made, all the ways it’s been hacked, how it looks in a variety of fabrics, all the checks that convince me it’s a good investment pattern, not just a one-hit wonder. If I’m not sure, I follow the pattern hashtag to see if I get swayed either way. I also have a ton of inspiration saved to Pinterest boards so that I know what kind of styles I’m drawn to – otherwise it’s too easy to get seduced by a trendy pattern and then realise it doesn’t fit my style at all.
Harrison Dress by The Patternline
And then comes love
I have a lot of patterns and with it, a lot of overlaps in my collection. So now, when I find myself reaching for the buy button, I ask myself: what do I love about it? It could be a dart I don’t have in my arsenal, the perfect shape of oversized jacket or shirt, even sometimes it’s as simple as a type of seam I haven’t tried before. If there’s really nothing striking me about the pattern, then I try to put it to one side and see how often I find myself wishing it was in my stash. I picked the t because I loved the way the volume was created in the sleeves and it’s all finished with distinct seam finishes like flat felled seams — it was great practice, by the time I’d finished I felt confident I could nail them the next time.
Then I see how far it can go
I’ve started looking at patterns as a base – like a dress I can easily make into a top too, or remove the sleeves for hotter weather, even better, something I can easily shorten or lengthen for a whole new look. If you’re braver than me, you might even partake in some slashing and spreading. I have so many patterns now that I really want each of them to work as hard as they can. If it’s not versatile, it has to be something really special that I really need. The strapless dress pictured above works as a dress and a top, plus it’s super easy to switch out the skirt section for a completely different silhouette. This one is in linen and I made another in a sparkly fabric and they look so different, you wouldn’t think they’re the same base pattern.
Finally, I cover my basics
It’s easy to zero in on the latest “it” dress from McCalls, or fall in love with another wide leg trouser pattern (guilty) but I’ve never ever regretted a well fitting, hard working basic. I think it’s important to think about the things you love to wear, especially if you’re trying to wean yourself off RTW, and ensure you’ve got all of those bases covered. I have my go-to shirt, vest, simple trouser patterns that I pick up every time I’m missing a staple that works as a good palette cleanser project but also something I know I’ll wear.
So, it’s as simple as that. Would love to hear in the comments how you pick your patterns and where you find inspiration too! And keep an eye out of my next piece where I’ll share some of my favourite patterns to make using Fabric Store’s lovely linen collection.
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About Author
Leila d’Angelo
Thanks for reading! For context, I’m a self-taught sewist with a small, mostly under control addiction to good linen. The first proper pattern I ever made came off Stumble Upon (which was Pinterest before Pinterest, anyone else?) but it took a pandemic to get me to properly sit down and stop overthinking it. I still do a lot of overthinking, but at least as much sewing too. I live in London with my partner and our two sphynx cats and you can find me on Instagram as @peaceontheside. A page I started because even when you’re a brand director all day, you still need a bit of creative freedom (and peace) on the side.Leave a comment
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7 Comments
Holly Neerman
Last year, as part of a consolidation, i went through my patterns and gave any duplicates or ones I’d had for years but never used. I was struck by how many there were! Most fell into one of two categories a) looks i loved but didn’t suit me, or b) patterns that would have required so many adjustments that i gave up before i started. I am becoming adept at hacking the patterns that remained, and when i am tempted to buy a new one, i check my stash first and also look to see if it is a close enough fit to be worth it (Doing an fba from b cup to f or g cup is not only unwieldy, but also distorts the pattern lines.)
Leila d'Angelo
Oh my gosh absolutely yes to everything you said. Yes to donating and yes to accepting that if you’re redrafting a pattern basically from scratch, it’s not worth it!
Mary Claire Salander
Thanks for your thoughts on pattern selection! When I was younger, I was very thin. In my mind, I still think of myself as tall and thin, causing me to gravitate toward dresses that no longer flatter me. So for me, I look at a pattern and imagine myself wearing it. This helps me avoid some mistakes. The Oona dress is a great example of something that both fits and flatters. And it can easily be hacked. I made this in Cobalt linen for a cruise I’ll be taking next week. I love it! I want to get more adventurous in creating pieces. Your column helps me think about how to do so.
Leila d'Angelo
Oh I bet it looked amazing! I’m not sure if you saw but your comment sparked a whole new blog post this week, so thank you!
Nalani Mcclendon
Thank you! I have learned much from your post. Now, I want to consider patterns like you do. I should not be a robotic buyer. It’s about the lines and the styles and my body type. Onward to rational and creative choices.
Leila d'Angelo
I’m so glad to hear that Nalani! Mostly rational? You still have to allow yourself a few irrational moments!
France Quirion
Thank you for your share! Nice thoughts! Same for me, I mix and match a lot of things together and I love the creative process too. Happy sewing!