There are so many ways to finish a seam, from good old overlocking to French seams and binding.

I recently stumbled across another method that’s pretty nifty, and honestly, I kind of wish I had known about it sooner. It is a bit like binding, but topstitched in place so it doesn’t move or flap about.

What I love about this technique is that it looks good on both the right and wrong side of the fabric, so it’s great for reversible garments. I already have a project in mind where I’ll definitely be using it.

The technique is fairly straightforward, neat, and even leaves room for a bit of personalisation, so I thought I’d break it down and share it with you step by step.

Step 1: Cut the binding strip

You can use the same fabric as the body of the garment or a contrasting one. If you choose a contrast fabric, just make sure it has a similar composition and weight to the main fabric. This will ensure it behaves the same way when sewing, pressing, and laundering.

Binding is typically cut on the bias, but for this method, it can depend on the fabric and the edge you’re finishing:

• When you don’t need the bias: For straight seams, cutting the binding along the grain (i.e. parallel to the selvedge) should work just fine.
• When the bias can be helpful: For curved seams, like a shaped hem, cutting the binding strip on the bias (i.e. at a 45° angle to the grainline) will provide a little more stretch and flexibility.

So how do you know what size binding to cut?

• Length: A few centimetres longer than your seam.
• Width: This can vary. The visible width of the binding will be roughly a quarter of the strip’s width and should be a few millimetres wider than your seam allowance. Don’t worry, this will make more sense as we go.

For this tutorial, I’m using a 32mm wide binding strip. After folding it in half, it becomes 16mm wide. When I sew it on using a 6mm seam allowance, I am left with a visible 10mm (1cm) of binding.

Step 2: Fold and press binding strip

Fold the binding strip in half lengthwise, with the wrong sides together, and press.

Step 3: Attach the binding

There are two ways to attach the binding, depending on the seam allowance and your personal preference.

Option 1: Sew the seam first, then add the binding

This method is ideal for wider seam allowances, such as 1–1.5cm.

1. Sew the seam, aligning right sides of the fabric together.

2. Trim the seam allowance.

3. Pin or clip the binding to the main fabric, aligning the open edge of the binding with the cut edge of the fabric.

4. Sew over the original stitching line from Step 1.

Option 2: Sew the binding as you sew the seam

This method works best for narrow seam allowances, such as 6mm.

1. Pin or clip the binding to the main fabric, aligning the open edge of the binding with the cut edge of the fabric.

2. Sew the binding and fabric together.

Step 4: Open and press the binding

Gently open the seam so it lies flat. Then fold the binding over the seam allowance and press it in place. The binding should completely cover the seam allowance and sit neatly against the fabric. Take care when pressing in this step, as it will make topstitching much easier in the next step.

Tip: If you want to keep things consistent, a good rule of thumb when it comes to the direction of pressing common seams is:

• Side seams and shoulder seams: Towards the back of the garment.
• Sleeve cap: Towards the sleeve.
• Horizontal darts: Downwards.
• Vertical darts: Towards the centre front or back of the garment.
• Necklines: Downwards, towards the body of the garment.
• Cuffs: Upwards, towards the sleeve.

Step 5: Topstitch binding in place

To finish, topstitch the binding about 1–2mm from the folded edge. Take your time to keep your stitching even and straight, as this will give your seam a clean, professional finish and ensure both sides look neat.

Pinning the binding in place and using an edge-stitching foot can make this step easier, but it is not essential.

When you’re done, you should have a neat bound seam on one side and a simple row of stitching on the reverse.

Which side becomes the “right” side of the fabric is up to you, and either way, this method really does create a nice, polished finish.

That really is it! This is such a simple way to finish seams, and it looks neat on both sides of the fabric. I can definitely see myself using this technique on all sorts of projects. Happy sewing, and enjoy your perfectly finished (reversible) seams!