Power Dressing: Georgia O’Keeffe’s Fabric
Alfred Stieglitz, Georgia O’Keeffe: A Portrait, 1918. Gelatin silver print, Philadelphia Museum of Art; Purchased with the Lola Downin Peck Fund, 1978
Georgia O’Keeffe was a woman of immeasurable talent and ambition, one who charged through the 20th century with a singular and uncompromising vision. Her name is synonymous today with immediately arresting paintings of sleek, sensuous flowers and the barren, hollow bones of New Mexico. But there is another, less written about side to O’Keeffe, that of a power dresser who adored clothing and fabrics. She left in her legacy a vast archive of clothing that spanned most of her lifetime, some she even made by hand as a talented seamstress. These clothes reveal much about the way she saw herself, and the image she wanted to present to the world. And one of the most fascinating aspects of her self-styled image is the way it synchronised so closely with her art, echoing the same clean, bold and assertive language of modernity.
Alfred Stieglitz, Georgia O’Keeffe, 1920
O’Keeffe was a country girl at heart, born and raised on the family wheat farm in Sun Prairie, Wisconsin. They were an immensely creative family and O’Keeffe was taught how to draw and sew from a young age by her many older family members. Even in these early years, she was already beginning to understand the close relationship between various artistic disciplines. From a young age, O’Keeffe she knew she wanted to become an artist, and she went on to study at the Art Institute of Chicago, followed by the progressive Art Students League in New York.
O’Keeffe’s big break came through exhibiting her art at Alfred Stieglitz’s New York gallery in 1918. Stieglitz and O’Keeffe also began a love affair, and she became his muse, appearing in hundreds of his photographs over the next 15 years. As her career grew, O’Keeffe was also photographed by various other leading photographers including Ansel Adams and Yousuf Karsh. Her experience posing for these photographs was hugely significant for O’Keeffe, showing her that she could cultivate a public image for herself that would deepen the understanding of her art. Over time, the many photographs of O’Keeffe as she matured present her as a powerful, totemic figure dressed in the same sinuous, flowing shapes that appeared in her paintings, and it is as if she and her art become one. Public images also show O’Keeffe often dressed in black and white with minimal lines and silhouettes, an androgynous look that was as daring and confrontational as her art.
Yousuf Karsh, Georgia O’Keeffe, 1956
But O’Keeffe’s relationship with clothing and fabric wasn’t just for public show – after her death in 1986, a vast wardrobe brimming with around 2000 different clothes from throughout her entire life was discovered in her home, and this rich archive of clothing reveals many hidden stories about the artist. She was a talented seamstress and made many of her own clothes, which she stored away as works of art in her wardrobe. She also wore many more types of clothing than those we see in the publicity shots, including different patterns and colours. O’Keeffe also had a huge collection of wrap dresses and kimonos which she mostly reserved for wearing at home because she loved their flowing drapery and comfort. When she relocated to the desert of New Mexico, O’Keeffe developed a minimal working uniform of jeans and a denim shirt, not just for their practicality, but because they allowed her to express the kind of rustic, naturalistic artist she had become.
Georgia O’Keeffe
In 2017, the esteemed art historian Wanda M Corn curated an exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum titled Georgia O’Keeffe: Living Modern. It was a radical display that exhibited O’Keeffe’s huge archive of clothing alongside her art, drawing many parallels between the two. Corn wanted to highlight just how closely tied O’Keeffe’s dress sense, and entire lifestyle, was with the aesthetic of her art. Knowing about O’Keeffe’s personal style also gives us a much deeper understanding of who she really was beneath the surface, and how she brought the same uniquely personal vision of modernity into every aspect of her life.
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19 Comments
Elizabeth Roddy
I have been inspired by Georgia O’Keeffe’s personal style since that exhibit came out. One of my sewing goals is to recreate her classic black and white wrap dress: https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2017/05/22/a-behind-the-scenes-look-at-the-exhibit-georgia-okeeffe-living-modern
Brenda Tong
Thanks for the article link! Wonderful to see her clothes ~
Laurel Humphrey
I live in New Mexico. I have a large O’Keefe poster framed in my living room. You could say she influences me in my fabric art. Enjoyed reading your essay. She lives on! Thanks
Nancy Stockman
I evidently missed this when it was first posted so thank you for the prompt. Lovely article, amazing woman. I’ve turned my wardrobe into linen but confess I’m still trying to nail down *my* look. She is my inspiration.
Kelly Morrissey
I was fortunate enough to get to see the O’Keeffe: Living Modern exhibit when it was at the Toledo Museum of Art. I wish someone would develop a pattern or two in homage. Thank you for this article.
Jeanie Puckett
I have always loved linen. Especially quality linen. Fabrics-Store is a purveyor of just such linen – quality. I’ve become a HUGE fan, buying more linen than I need or have a plan for. I can’t help it ! (I may need an intervention!)
This article about Georgia O’Keefe was something I was so happy to read. I have long admired her and her work – such an interesting and complex woman. This evening, after I read the article, I thought how great it is that we are presented with such wonderful articles. What a treat ! Then I began to think about FS and the wonderful experiences I’ve had – the lovely fabrics, the superb customer service, the frequent sales, the wonderful interesting and educational articles, the patterns and reviews, . . . . . . . and I thought, this is not a place to shop. This is a place to EXPERIENCE.
Cynthia Quintanilla
I enjoy reading your articles so much. They bring me great pleasure. Georgia O’Keefe has always intrigued me. Thank you for the insight into her art of clothing. I look forward to your next article. Best regards.
Lori Feld
I always enjoy your articles! For those who are interested, another great book about “Georgia O’Keefe, her art and her wardrobe is “Georgia O’Keefe Living Modern”.
Charlotte Holmes
The 1920 dress looks as though it was made from your medium weight black linen. Gorgeous post. Thanks!
Susan Donze
Forever a fan of O’Keefe, now more so, since finding out she considered clothing creation was a part of her artistic journey. Linen must have played a large part in the Southwest.
Thanks for sharing more of her story.
Marilee Henneberger
I was able to see that exhibit of her clothing mentioned. It was wonderful, tying her clothing choices to her art. I’ve also visited her home at Abiquiu’ in New Mexico. She obviously wore a lot of linen out there in the warm months, as well as wool in the winter. Much of the clothing she made for herself was intricately sewn by hand.
Lynn Sullivan
As someone who has just started sewing, I find this an intriguing perspective when considering my own choices in clothing. Thank you for this article.
Lora Mesiano
I was lucky enough to see the “Living Modern” exhibit. It inspired me to start garment sewing again after 40 years.
katarina preux
Katarina Preux
I enjoy reading your essays and specially yours about of Georgia O’Keeffe.
Little to do with fabric. Though the beauty is common.
Edition GALLAWAY has edited a remarkable Coffee Table Book about Georgia O’Keefes paintings.
The title is ONE HUNDRES FLOWERS.
You can sit for ours turning pages and just admiring the beauty of her art…
Best,
Katarina
katarina preux
I enjoy reading your essays and specially yours about of Georgia O’Keeffe.
Little to do with fabric. Though the beauty is common.
Edition GALLAWAY has edited a remarkable Coffee Table Book about Georgia O’Keefes paintings.
The title is ONE HUNDRES FLOWERS.
You can sit for ours turning pages and just admiring the beauty of her art…
Best,
Katarina
Claudette Mikelsons
I have always been a fan of Georgia O’Keefe and read her autobiography several years ago. Her style was so elegant and was true to her persona. Thank you for this great article and I would have loved to see that exhibit.
Vicki Lang
I don’t always leave a comment on your articles but I always read them. You find the most interesting people to write about. Thank you for sharing your knowledge on the great artists.
Cynthia Vournas
Really interesting, I would have loved to have seen the exhibit of her clothes. Thank you.
Carol Merchasin
I did not know this about O’Keeffe and I appreciate your well written and fascinating post!