PATTERN REVIEW: Phoebe Tank in Ash Linen
Linen tanks have become a signature piece in my summer wardrobe. I’m convinced I cannot have enough of these simple, versatile, and breathable garments for hot July days. So, this week, I added another one to my closet, the Phoebe Tank in Ash Linen.
PHOEBE Tank in FS ASH Midweight Linen
This pattern only took 1 yard of fabric and 2 hours of sewing time to finish, another reason I love tank tops! Since I do not have a lot of extra time in the summer to sew clothing for myself, projects like this one feel attainable without adding stress to an already busy schedule. The ash linen was leftover from a few baby clothes I made for friends earlier in the year, and the Phoebe tank was the perfect way to use up this extra yard of linen. It’s a beautiful neutral color.
PHOEBE Tank in FS ASH Midweight Linen
Sewing the Phoebe tank was super easy and straightforward. I love how the armholes and neckline are finished with a bias binding edge, making the garment feel high end. The tank has a high neckline and a slight A-line silhouette, which I appreciate for its modest feel and comfortability. It looks good tucked into a pair of trousers or untucked for a more relaxed look. I made my normal size 2, but if I were to make it again, I would probably make the next size up. I have wide shoulders and a medium sized bust, so the size 2 feels a little tight around the neckline and bust. This could also be fixed by simply adding a ¼”-½” along the centerfold of the front bodice. I would also drop the armholes by about ½”. Although I love the coverage and how the high armhole hides the arm crease, it’s a bit uncomfortable to wear all day.
If you try out this free pattern, I recommend measuring your bust and armhole to double check your size. With those adjustments in mind, I think this is a wonderful pattern for a quick and easy sewing project that results in a classic garment to wear for years and years.
Happy sewing,
Morgann
About Author
Morgann McCoy
Morgann is the owner, designer, and seamstress behind A Well Worn Story, a sewing studio in southern Wisconsin creating handcrafted leather and canvas bags inspired by adventure.Leave a comment
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41 Comments
Laura Weston
It looks to me like the lines on the back cut are the same for the two smallest sizes. Do I use the second one for a size 4/6?
Lauren Linen
yes, just follow the patterned line for the 4/6 as best you can 🙂
Maureen Quintin
Thanks for your pattern review, and your patience in replying to so many comments in one day!
I’ve been reading articles on this blog almost everyday and I’ve been learning so much. I’m excited to learn a new craft and grateful for the resources freely offered. It upsets me a bit when I read comments that are combative and that criticize without foundation. It creates strife, not something meaningful.
Stephanie Finn
Thanks for the review and photos, Morgann! I’d been eyeing this pattern for a couple of weeks but was tentative to try it without adding the FBA (which I’ve never done before) even though I have a moderate bust. You’ve given me the courage to try it out and you look stunning as usual. Can I ask if the pants in your photo are a FS pattern? I like the fit.
Patti Romero
This is my absolute favorite tank! I have made 4 of them with the first in cotton muslin to check the pattern for me. I learned that like many others here, I wanted to have a bit more ease in the neckline and armholes. I honestly don’t recall how much I adjusted but not much like maybe a 1/2 inch-1 inch as I adjusted the pattern. I liked it and just kept making more like that. I am 5ft 5 1/2in, 130 lbs 32D or 34C depending on the bra. I might have given a tiny bit more length, I can’t remember. But I love the fit now and have plans to continue making in different fabrics. So far I have made all in IL019 – bleached, mixed natural (my favorite), and insignia blue (navy). It is great alone or as a layering piece. I like the length and I wear it out but could tuck if I wanted.
I love Morgan McCoy’s reviews and appreciate her doing so.
Patti Romero
Interesting that I have the first one I made in muslin on in my picture. I just realized this when I saw the post. You can’t really see it because of the scarf and the camera angle. I still wear it.
Marylou Corrigan
What size did you make?
Kathleen Mccartney
I am only a C cup but never like (somewhat fitted) tops unless they have darts. They never fit completely right. So I did an FBA, added side slits, and lengthened it an inch or two. I’ve made it up twice in cheap cotton just to check the fit. My next step is to decide what colors I need and make a few in linen. I now have a pattern that works for me.
Marilee Henneberger
I agree. I have taken some fashion, PR and clothing production courses and learned that hair and scarves are often used in fashion photos to cover up problematic fit and garment style and construction issues, especially around necklines and collars. So, anytime I see a model covering part of the outfit she is modeling, I become suspicious.
Jeni Butler
Why would Morgann highlight some issues she had with the fit (and suggest solutions to them) and then attempt to disguise other issues with the fit? You do realise you are not making any sense, don’t you?
Morgann McCoy
Hey Marilee! I’m not a model, but a professional seamstress and a writer. I made this garment for myself, then took a selfie while wearing it on a normal work day. I love how Fabrics-store uses seamstresses at all levels to review their patterns, while allowing me to take photos of how I actually wear clothes in real life. So in the spirit of authenticity, I chose to take photos of myself in my everyday setting, which includes how I naturally wear my hair. I also outlined in the article my take-aways from the pattern and how I would change the fit. I hope this is helpful and something to consider when reading other articles on The Thread.
Patti Ulrich
Hi Morgan….I think you’re beautiful and look so pretty in the tank top. My daughter looks very similar to you and I just love to see what she’s wearing and what combos she comes up with. Keep up the awesome work!!! 🙂
Alice Elliot
Wow after all these comments I think I’ll just draft my own!!
Morgann McCoy
Go for it! Drafting your own is always a good option if you have the time! I think this pattern gives you a good baseline to start, then adjust to make it your own.
Giana Borgman
My eyes glaze over when I see another model-ish person standing with her hips thrust forward and a figure like an adolescent. Many women had a shape like that for a time in their life, many didn’t, Other body types are a lot more interesting . We are not evaluating haute couture here, so why emulate it?
Jeni Butler
I think if you actually read the article, you will find that the photo is of the person who wrote the review of the tank top. Why would she post a photo of someone else wearing the tank she made, just because you don’t care to see photos of slim, attractive women wearing the garment they made for themselves?
Giana Borgman
Morgan, I am very happy with beautiful me, and also happy that you are happy with you. Please don’t try to educate me on body-image philosophy or why we are shaped the way we are shaped. Genes, lifestyle, belief in a god, professional lighting and photoshop all may have a role apparently. Authenticity in this case, is clearly subjective. I commented on the photo, not on you
Morgann McCoy
Hey Giana. I’m not a model, but a professional seamstress and writer. I took a selfie of the tank top I made for myself before running out the door on a normal work day. I have a slim body type, it is the way God made me, and I do not believe my body is any less or more interesting than someone with more curves. It’s true that sewing patterns and fashion styles will look different depending on your body type, but that’s actually a beautiful thing to celebrate. Fabrics-store gives seamstresses like myself the opportunity to review their patterns and take photos of ourselves wearing the garments in our everyday life. I love the authenticity of this and I hope you will consider it as you read future articles.
Brenda Braun
I had the same issue with the armholes and the bust/back being snug (but I read all the reviews left for the pattern so I knew this in advance), I cut with about a half inch extra along the folds and scooped the armholes and the neckline a little extra, which I found odd because my biggest complaint about RTW tank tops is their too low armholes.
I made one in a medium weight Nine Iron and love it. I also tried it in the Natural Rustic since I had it on hand, it’s ok but a little heavy to wear.
I’m a 36D and used the size 10.
Brenda Braun
I wanted to add that the second one, I did a slight scoop to the back piece when I cut it out, not really dramatic but it turned out nice. If I can figure out how to do it, I’d like to do side slits on one.
Jeni Butler
I’m not quite clear what you meant here. Did you mean you scooped the back neckline a little more, or did you mean you curved the hemline, at the back?
Morgann McCoy
This is really helpful information. Thanks for sharing Brenda!
Frances Mckee
Where is it can I find the Phoebe tank pattern?
Frances Mckee
Disregard, found it!!!
Kate Sweet
I have made the Phoebe tank multiple times now, mostly in the IL019 linen. It did need some adjustment on the armholes and neck and I did add darts. But it is such a simple, elegant pattern that it’s really easy to hack many different ways. You could even use a bit more fabric and cut it on the bias and probably would not need darts then.
Here are some of the changes I have made: lengthened and added pockets, added side slits, used hemstitching along the hemline, made a scoop neck and v neck, used a simple rolled hem on neck and armholes instead of bias tape, made french seams for shoulders and sides. Pretty much everything I made was from doggie bag finds and everyone notices my new summer wardrobe.
Morgann McCoy
I agree that it’s such an elegant pattern and a good base pattern for creating your own version! Thanks for sharing the changes you made, Kate!
Jeni Butler
It sounds like you have some great ideas there!
Kate Sweet
Thanks Jeni and Morgann: I really appreciate Fabrics.Store for giving our community free patterns and lovely cloth to work with. After I made my first linen tank, all my other tops looked worn out and drab so I used the same basic pattern and doggie bag pieces and made about 6 new shirts, each a little different.
Rebecca Fuller
When you take pictures of models wearing clothes please take one or two pictures where their hair isn’t covering the neckline making it hard to see the cut of the clothing. Just a thought!
Morgann McCoy
Good point! I will keep that in mind going forward. The writers doing the pattern reviews actually take photos of themselves wearing the garments, so I’m definitely not a professional model haha. I have a few more photos on my Instagram if you’re interested (@awellwornstory). Appreciate the feedback!
Marilee Henneberger
I agree. I have taken some fashion, PR and clothing production courses and learned that hair and scarves are often used in fashion photos to cover up problematic fit and garment style and construction issues, especially around necklines and collars. So, anytime I see a model covering part of the outfit she is modeling, I become suspicious.
Reply to comment
Kathleen Keen
I want to love this pattern, but it won’t drape right for anyone with a bust (even B cups may not fit right) due to the lack of darts. Either the bust will fit too tightly or there will be lots of extra fabric on the torso. It is perfect for smaller framed (and busted) women.
Angela Morales
In the pic that Morgann posted, she looks to be amply endowed, and the top fits beautifully! I don’t see any excess of fabric either. I think the pattern would be great for any size…??
Morgann McCoy
Thank you for your kind words, Angela! I really like the slight A-line silhouette of this garment. It feels luxurious and allows me to tuck into my linen trousers 🙂
Morgann McCoy
I can understand how this pattern might not work well for a larger bust. I am a size B cup and made my normal size 2, and the top does feel a little bit tight across the bust. I think you could size up and even add darts if you wanted. I personally like the extra fabric along the torso, but that completely depends on your personal style and the fit you’re looking for!
Kathleen Ryan
Kristi you’re right about the armholes, I had to make them a little deeper. I had no issues with the neckline although next time I’ll make it more boatneck.
Morgann McCoy
Agreed! Dropping the armhole would make for a better fit. I recommend double checking your armhole and bust measurement before deciding on a size to sew in this pattern.
Elizabeth Dunn
Where is the pattern review? I see photos of Morgann, but no comments from her.
Morgann McCoy
I just updated the article with my review. Sorry, I’m a little behind on my writing this week! Thanks for your patience with me!
Kristi Holz
The tank looks tight around the arms and high up on the neck. If alterations could be made for these issues, I’d consider trying this pattern.
Morgann McCoy
I talked about this in my review. It is a little bit tight around the armhole. I love the coverage, but if I were to make it again, I would simply drop the armhole by about 1/2″. It’s a pretty easy change to make, especially on a free pattern!