Emma – Linen Maxi Kaftan Tutorial and Free Pattern
Master the art of vacation style with our new sewing pattern – the Maxi Kaftan! This chic kaftan dress includes a built-up deep V-neckline and an inverted pleat in the front and back for added volume while maintaining an elongated, slim silhouette. Wear it with a detachable belt to define your waist or loose for a comfortable and breezy look.
Materials
3 yards of 1C64 WHITE SAND Softened Medium Weight Linen
Matching sewing thread, medium weight fusible interfacing
Tools
Pattern paper, scissors, pins, ruler, chalk, measuring tape, fabric marker, sewing machine
Difficulty
Beginner
Time
5 hours
Pattern
You can access the multi-sized printable PDF pattern by following this link HERE. The model is wearing US size 4/6.
Steps
Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, dry in room temperature. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.
1. Before we start, prepare your bodice pattern pieces by serging/zigzagging the side/armhole raw edges. This will prevent the fabric from fraying in the future.
2. First off, form 2”-wide inverted pleats at the center front and the center back of your bodice pieces. With your fabric’s right side facing you, accordion pleat your fabric (1” to 1”) at the center so that the two pleats meet at the center. Pin the pleat in place to secure it but do not press with your iron as we want it to hang loosely.
For the front bodice, find the spot 3″ below your V-point at the neckline, and form an additional pleat there. This will help keep your pleats in place while sewing the facing.
To keep the pleats in place, run a small line of basting that you’ll rip off after you’ve attached the facing.
We have a great tutorial about inverted pleats where you can find more detailed instructions.
3. Pin the front and the back bodices right sides together at shoulder seams.
4. Sew the pinned edges at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance, trim to 1/4” (6 mm) and finish the raw edges with a serger or a zigzag stitch. Press the seams flat folding the serged/zigzagged edges towards the back of your kaftan.
5. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of your facing pieces and pin them right sides at shoulder seams.
6. Stitch at a 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance and press the seams open. Serge/zigzag the outer raw edge.
7. Place the right side of the facing on top of the right side of your garment matching up the shoulder seams and pin. Use plenty of pins to get the facing seated and make sure it’s centered.
8. Stitch the facing onto the neckline at a 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. To get to the V-point, you can cut the front fabric a little bit since it’ll be trimmed off later anyway.
When you come to the V, stop the machine with the needle still in the fabric, sew one or two stitches straight on and turn the fabric to sew the rest of the V.
9. Now that you’ve sewn the facing to the garment, you need to trim away the excess fabric at the front and release the tension by clipping the V as close to the stitch line as possible (be careful not to cut through). This will help us get our nice V-shape.
10. The next thing to do is to trim the seams to 1/4”, then clip to, but not through, the curve line at the back to release the tension.
11. Pull the facing to the wrong side of the garment, pin the fold making sure that the seam isn’t showing on the right side, and press it. Take a few seconds to really get in the corner of your V with your iron.
12. Topstitch the entire neckline. It will help to prevent the facing from popping back out and lay flat on the inside. From the right side of the garment, stitch a straight line all around the neckline as close as possible to the seam (starting at the center back or at the shoulder seams).
Remove the basting stitches made in step 2.
The hardest part is over, now let’s sew the rest of the dress.
13. Pin your side seams right sides together. Mark 20” from the bottom hem. This is your side seam slit.
14. Stitch the side seams together and stop at the mark indicating the beginning of the slit. Remember to backstitch.
15. Press the seams open, including the side splits’ seam allowances.
16. Stitch the edges of the side slits in place as close to the outer edge as possible.
17. Finish the sleeves and the bottom of your kaftan with a rolled hem. Fold the fabric twice to the wrong side (3/8” to 1/2”), press and pin.
Lastly, sew the detachable belt.
18. Press your belt fabric in half lengthwise (wrong side facing you) and sew the long raw edges together at a 1/4” (6 mm) seam allowance.
19. Turn the belt right side out through the hole and press again. Tuck in the short ends raw edges and topstitch around all the edges (1/4” (6 mm) from the edge) to close the openings and make sure that the belt doesn’t shift in the future.
Give your kaftan one last good press and you are all done!
Have a browse through our plethora of colors and find the one that inspires you for this project!
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42 Comments
Helen Kim
Hi! I can’t find how much fabric I’ll need to make this for a size 0.. thank you
Sarah H.
I’m having trouble with the neckline, the front facing does not seem to match the front. Is it right that the V is much shorter on the facing?
Lauren Linen
Hello, The facing and front neckline should be the same. Perhaps your neckline has stretched a little? I would run a line of stay stitching on your neckline to keep it from stretching out of place.
nicole glaberman
I also would greatly benefit from this. It seems like parts of the pieces on a fold aren’t straight so as a beginner sewer I would appreciate the extra guidance on how to cut those on the fold.
megan
Hello, I’m able to open the pattern no problem, but I’m failing to see anything on either the pattern, or this tutorial on recommended layouts for cutting – it just starts right with sewing. This would be incredibly helpful given that most of the pieces need to be cut on the fold.
Thank you
Beverly
Your produce sounds fabulous. I would like to try the sale offer for a bedspread. I have contacted you to find out the width (57″). I called to determine color and was told to click on “search.” I have not been able to find “search” on your website. VERY FRUSTRATED trying to spend my money! Can you give me any more help? I need to have an idea of how white is “bleached.” I need a color to make a bedspread/blanket cover in a room with ivory lace window panels.
Masha Karpushina
Beverly, hello, thank you for not giving up and getting in touch. In order to find fabric, you need to go to: https://fabrics-store.com/ and you will see the ‘search’ field in the top right corner. What are you looking for? We have fabric on sale every day. For bedspread, this fabric is fabulous, my sheets are made out of this: https://fabrics-store.com/fabrics/linen-fabric-IL019-bleached-softened-middle/ Our bleached is a soft creamy color. If you are looking for white fabric, then you should opt for this one: https://fabrics-store.com/fabrics/linen-fabric-IL019-optic-white-softened-middle/ . Hope this helps. let me know if you need more help.
Judith Leland
I prefer looking at the doggie bag to buying samples. Each and every dbag comes with a sticker with details. So until you are ready to begin sewing, shop for colors you love, and buy at least a yard piece. That can always be used for bias, or gift bags is you wouldn’t want to wear it. When you need yds of something buy all you need of the main color. It mays change a small amount from bolt to bolt. I generally try to keep my doggy bag purchases to 30-50. Dollars, if there are colors I haven’t purchase. (under a dollar,)I try to add as many as possible to cart.
Washing, and drying takes a an hour or two, getting used to steps like zigzagging edges can cut down on raveling. The pdf patterns I love! But printing them out, taping pieces together takes time too. On the other hand, small samples are more professional, and small to gather together for storage.
Rebecca Hart
I downloaded the pattern. I have the size chart and amount of material needed, but no pattern! I only received 5 pages.
Masha Karpushina
Rebecca, hey, try opening it in Acrobat Reader
Judith Leland
After looking through tutorials, I add the one I’m making to my Reading list…the first time I make that garment I work through it step by step, reviewing tutorials such as flat field pleat technique, and reread them. My general sewing techniques are growing!
deborah
I am unable to access the pattern, i only get 6 pages. None of them are a pattern just photos and writing!
deborah
never mind i figured it out. thank you for this pattern.
becky
What about an FBA for this. It looks like it has plenty of room in the back, but way too little for the front!
Marca Fleener
Wow! I love it! Can’t wait to try it!
oksana karpushin
I am going to need you to bring that next time you visit so I could “borrow it” from you
Sophie
Home Run on this pattern! Love the totally simple Asian Aesthetic details; the small pleat in the back, the V-neck & sweet little pleat in the front to mirror the back. Adore the short Kimono sleeves too (echos of cap sleeves, but easier and always flattering!) Nice overall classic design with just the perfect little Modern touch. Bravo!
Masha Karpushina
Thank you so much, Sophie. Rima will be thrilled !
Tamar Rein
could you please post some more photos of the finished kaftan?
Elaine
Yes…..I need a few closer pix plus full body photos.
Masha Karpushina
Elaine, we reposted four of of final photos. Please let me know if you can see them. Thank you. It helps to see changes if you refresh your browser.
Masha Karpushina
Tamar, we reposted the four final photos. Please let me know if you can see them .
Lori Taylor
The description mentions wearing it unbelted. Would you post some photos of it worn that way, so we can see how the pleats fall?
Masha Karpushina
Lori, these are all the photos we have, I’m afraid. You could style it without the belt, but unfortunately we didn’t take any photos of this look.
Pam
Thanks, Masha! ??
Masha Karpushina
You’re welcome Pam
Deborah
I agree this needs a front view as well as the back
Masha Karpushina
Deborah, we reposted four of of final photos. Please let me know if you can see them. Thank you. It helps to see changes if you refresh your browser.
Ann Pollack
Yes, please, more photos.
Masha Karpushina
Ann, we reposted four of of final photos. Please let me know if you can see them. Thank you. It helps to see changes if you refresh your browser.
Heather
Same as the other comments – I generally love caftans but can’t tell from the pictures if this is something I would like.
Masha Karpushina
Heather, we reposted four of of final photos. Please let me know if you can see them. Thank you. It helps to see changes if you refresh your browser.
carey
I agree with the above comments. The portion of the garment shown tells me nothing.
Masha Karpushina
Carey, we reposted four of of final photos. Please let me know if you can see them. Thank you. It helps to see changes if you refresh your browser.
Anastasia
If you go to the download Pattern link, it includes the front view. Not sure why they didn’t included on this page.
Link included for convenience: https://fabrics-store.com/sewing-patterns/emma-maxi-kaftan-pattern/
Masha Karpushina
Anastasia, thank you. It was a technical fault.
Mary Jean Gross
I would like to view the front and the back of the garment so I can decide if I want to make it.
Masha Karpushina
Sorry ladies, for some reason the photos didn’t upload. All fixed.
Rebecca
Is there a picture of the rest of the dress? I don’t want to make something that I have only seen the back of the waist.
Masha Karpushina
Sorry ladies, for some reason the photos didn’t upload. All fixed.
Ann
Seeing the entire garment might be a little more enticing. That snippet of the back doesn’t give one much of an idea if this will be flattering or just a big ole sack.
Masha Karpushina
Sorry ladies, for some reason the photos didn’t upload. All fixed.