Overalls have been an absolute must for the past two years again and since we love linen, it only made sense to make overalls out of linen. They sit and feel amazing, so we are super super happy to have a chance to show you how you can make yourselves a pair. They are perfect for summer, made out of our Mid Weight IL019 Kenya, or easily worn’ for Spring and Autumn with a lovely thick woollen jumper. We have had a lot of comments on how to size up’ any of the tutorials we make, if you take a look at the diagram- you need to at 3/8 of an inch (1cm) to each seam for each size up. We make all our garments for roughly size 4-8 (UK 8 to 12). Linen is rarely meant to be worn tightly fitted, and most of the models of clothes we make would sit well in that range of sizes. However, if you need to make a larger size, follow instructions above. All the tutorials we make are meant as an inspiration,’ so bear with us, hopefully we will be able to get you proper multi size patterns in future, but for now we hope you will look at this, feel that creative rush, (possibly google a more suitable pattern) and get sewing.
Be sure to add your personal touch with perhaps a mix of fabric, and a variation on patterns.
3 yard of IL019 Kenya Softened
Matching sewing thread
Pattern paper, Pattern master
Paper and fabric scissors
Erasable fabric marker
Measuring tape, Pin
Buttonhole sewing feet
Sewing machine, Iron
Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, let this dry in room temperature.
1. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.
2. Follow the diagram and cut out the pieces. Seam allowance not included in the diagram. Add 3/8 of an inch to each seam. Note:’ Notching the centre of the bib panels, the waist bands (front and back) will prove useful.
The diagram shows the pattern for a size US6-8 (UK10-12). Adjust by adding 3/8 inch (1cm) to each seam for each’ size up, or take away 3/8 inch (1cm) for each size downwards. So if you are size US10 you will add 0.75 of an inch to all seams shown in diagram (this will include your seam allowance of 3/8 of inch and the sizing up value of 3/8 of an inch for 1 size up)
3. Use a serger, or choose your own method to protect the seams from fraying. Make sure the method you choose does not add weight to the fabric.
4. Press the 3/8 in (1cm) seam allowance all along the edge of the pocket, towards it’s wrong side. Top stitch only over the opening of the pocket.
5. Place it in the centre of one of the bib’ panels, and pin it down, along the side edge and bottom edge.
6. Top stitch over these three edges.
7. Fold the long straps into half, press the seams and fold 3/8 in (1cm) of the seam allowance towards it’s wrong side, on both edges and press it again.
8. Top stitch over the edge.
9. With the right side of both bib’ panels facing each other, pin along the diagonal side seams and top seam, with the straps (edge facing outwards) placed on the corner of the top seam.
10. Stitch along these three edges, turn the material back onto its right side and top stitch over these three edges again.
11. Now, moving on to the construction of the trousers, first, pin together the slanted seam of the pocket 1 panel with the front trouser panel. Stitch over and press the seam open.
12. Take the pocket 2 panel and pin it along all the edges with the pocket 1 panel, except the top seam. Making sure once these panels are sewn together, the right side of the pocket will be facing inwards, where you hands will be.
13. Now, carefully pin together the side seams of front and back trouser panels together, remember part of the front panel is the pocket 2 panel.
14. Stitch the seams together and press.
15. Also pin together the inner trouser seams. Stitch and press.
16. Then, with one of the trouser leg’s right side facing outwards, place this leg inside the other leg and pin together the crotch area. The seams should be facing outwards.
17. Stitch together and press the seam open.
18. Now to join the body and leg parts together, first pin the waist bands onto the bib’ panel (for the front waist bands) and onto the straps (for the back waist bands). This would have been made easier if you notched the centre point of the waist bands, so you could match up where the panels and straps should meet.
19. Stitch over the side seams of the waist bands as well as the long seams, securing all the panels and straps.
20. Next, press 3/8 in (1cm) seam allowance of the open edge of the waist bands onto its wrong side.
21. Place and pin this side of the waist band onto the trousers. Once again this would be easier if you have made the centre point notches, ensuring it is easy for you to match the centre seams. The front waist band will have 1 1/8 in (3cm) extra on both side, and this will be the button opening for the waistband.
22. Stitch along the pinned edge.
23. Following this tutorial, create two button holes on the extra material of the waist band.
24. Then following this tutorial, sew the buttons onto the back waist band accordingly.
25. Fold 3/8 in (1cm) seam allowance at’ the bottom of each trouser leg onto its wrong side. Give it a press and top stitch over this.
A practical piece of clothing to add to your collection. Why not take a look at our whole range of linen and see which colour inspires you the most?