How I Pick Patterns To Suit My Body Shape
I should start with a caveat. I think the idea of ‘flattering’ is so steeped in society’s obsession with controlling what women wear, that writing about picking patterns that suit my body type feels like walking a very tricky line. That being said, we cannot deny that certain silhouettes will make us feel wonderful, will send us out into the world with a smile on our face, and others, will do quite the opposite. We all have items of clothing in our wardrobes that we try on and put back every three or four months, because no matter how often we give it a chance, it just doesn’t do what we thought it’d do for us.
So with all of that in mind here are the ways I think about picking patterns for my body type.
Self Drafted Dress made with FS Faille Cotton in white inspired by the red number pictured above
First, I go shopping
When I first started sewing, I completely denounced RTW. I refused to step foot in Zara and I didn’t. It meant that I lost touch with what I loved about fashion, I stayed in much safer territory, I sewed the patterns everyone else did. But eventually I realised it’s much easier to experiment when all it takes is slipping something over your head in a changing room. Rediscovering the ability to window shop and try things on has been a revelation. I don’t often buy anything, but now I can get more familiar with what types of items I enjoy wearing and the things that no matter how much I want them to, don’t suit me. I pin whatever I find to my Pinterest board and then I go on the hunt for the closest pattern, or work with a sewing tutor to draft my own. The picture above is the dress I tried on (very very expensive, I could never buy it) and the dress I made out of my Fabric Store cotton inspired by the shape of the skirt.
Screenshot of the Hannah wrap dress hashtag on instagram with all the made versions
I do my research
I mentioned it in my last post, but when I find a pattern I like, I hunt Instagram for pictures of other people who have made the pattern before me. I try to find people who have a similar body type to mine and see if I like the way it works on them. Googling a pattern is another good way to start. Everyone has a personal preference for how things fit, so there’s no “I made this and I love it”, you have to make your own choice about whether it’s something you’ll make and wear, or make and end up gifting or giving up on.
I think about proportion
When we think about body type we often think about the shape of our body and miss the question of general proportions. Length, volume, those elements of a pattern are often the first thing that will count me in or out of a style. The thing to remember about proportion is that a lot of that can be fixed by editing the pattern to suit you. I made the jacket pictured above that I should have loved, I loved it on everyone else, but something about it wasn’t working at all. In the end, I realised it was the combination of the colour and the length and made some adjustments. It’s much better, but I’m still not sure it’s something I’ll say is perfect for me.
I try to lighten up
Not everything I make will be something I want to keep forever. I’m trying to lighten up about nailing everything first time. Part of that is double checking sometimes if it doesn’t suit or if it’s just a bad fit. I toile and toile and then sometimes I make something and it’s still not working. If I can gift it I do, otherwise I donate it and in the event of a truly awful turnout, I put it in my ‘large enough to do something with’ scrap bin and try to forget about it. The picture above I’m still not sure about—something in the fit, something in the foili-ness of the fabric…but I’m working on losing the idea that making something I don’t like is a waste and try to consider it a learning experience. I mean, how much have I spent on a takeaway that turned out to be less brilliant than hoped? How many hours have I spent watching a TV show that was ruined by a bad ending?
So there you go! A great comment from my last post inspired this piece, so let me know what you think about picking patterns for your body type below and you never know, maybe it’ll become the spark for the next one.
About Author
Leila d’Angelo
Thanks for reading! For context, I’m a self-taught sewist with a small, mostly under control addiction to good linen. The first proper pattern I ever made came off Stumble Upon (which was Pinterest before Pinterest, anyone else?) but it took a pandemic to get me to properly sit down and stop overthinking it. I still do a lot of overthinking, but at least as much sewing too. I live in London with my partner and our two sphynx cats and you can find me on Instagram as @peaceontheside. A page I started because even when you’re a brand director all day, you still need a bit of creative freedom (and peace) on the side.Leave a comment
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10 Comments
Mary Lee Moeny
I appreciate your comments. I was a sewer in the past, the life got busy! I want to get back to sewing things I like to wear; I have a growing stash of linen I need to use, but I’ve been stalled by uncertainty!! You’ve inspired me to dive-in and start with something, rather than dithering & flitting all around the edges. Thank you!
Leila d'Angelo
Hey Mary! I’m so so glad to hear! I’m going to share some good beginner patterns and some tips on how to dive back in soon too. You’ll have to add a comment to tell us how you get on!
D Martin
Hi! I recently learned of an alternative body typing system— one that doesn’t try to ‘fix’ your body shape, that has you wearing the same lines when you gain or lose weight. Kibbe seems to be the most well known, but he built on the ideas of Northrop and McJimsey and others. There are lots of YouTubers who have then come out with their own interpretations/names. I find it fascinating.
And to the point of your article, to my amateur YouTube educated eye, you fall in the dramatic category. The coat and dress you show that you are unsure of, fall under the natural category. Also, to my eye, many of the popular indie pattern designers seem to cater to the Natural. As I am not a natural, I find that rather disappointing, but it is definitely making it easier for me to rule out tempting patterns!
Diane Honegger
I agree. I’m “short-waisted” and have been given ways to make myself “natural-waisted”. Then I see fashions with exaggerated high waistbands that make the “natural-waisted” wearer look short-waisted. I’ve decided to celebrate my waist.
Leila d'Angelo
100% down on celebrating what you have!! Love that! I feel like it always looks better than when you’re trying to figure out a way to trick something to look right on you!
Leila d'Angelo
This is truly fascinating, thanks D! About to head off down the alternate body type rabbit hole. Can’t wait!! I also kind of like the idea that I fall into the dramatic category ha
Holly Delaney
Thank you for this article. I too have been let down by RTW with the way all brands seem to follow the latest trend without regard to different body shapes, or the exorbitant prices being charged for quality goods.. I am trying to make pieces that I love that fit me perfectly and compliment my body shape. I like you tips of trying things on and then finding or drafting a pattern to match those that you like. Somewhere, sometime I would love a guide to body types and clothing that looks good on those types. With lots of examples!
Leila d'Angelo
Oh that’s such a good call! I’d love that too. I’m not sure I know the answer to that one but would be cool to get a stylist to do one for us?
LEIGH STANTON
I do similar research because so much time and creative energy is put into making a garment. When it doesn’t fit or suit your figure it’s such a disappointment. The red dress is perfect for you. I really like the coat. Is that a self-drafted pattern? If not would you share the pattern you used? thank you for your wisdom. I will try not to fret over those pieces that do not work out.
Leila d'Angelo
Definitely try not to fret! I haven’t completely nailed it but getting there! The pattern is the Vivian Shao Chen Daphne Jacket with quite a few tweaks (you’ll be able to tell when you see the original) but tons of amazing versions also on Insta and I think I have more info about the pattern and what I did on @peaceontheside. Good luck!