If you want to conceal a zipper, or you’re looking for an alternative to an invisible zipper in pants, shorts, dresses, or skirts, consider using a lapped zipper technique. A lapped zipper can give an even more tailored look to your project. Installing a zipper this way might sound intimidating, but I want to share step-by-step instructions that will give you the confidence to try (and succeed!) with this skill.

Gather your supplies, starting with your lovely linen project. For this sample, I’m using 5.3oz Cobalt Linen. You will need your sewing machine, a zipper foot attachment (not mandatory, but very helpful), pins, scissors, a metal ruler, an iron/ironing surface, a seam ripper, and a coordinating zipper and thread. For these photos, I’m using a thread and zipper that stand out so you can see the steps more clearly. 

When you begin, make sure your project has a 5/8-inch seam allowance. Step 1: Iron the side you want to be the overlapping side at 5/8-inch. For me, this will be the right side, so it will lay on the left when I have it face down to iron. Step 2: Iron the side you want to be the underlayer at ½-inch. For me, this will be the left side, so it will lay on the right when face down to iron. Step 3: Flip your project over and lay the zipper under the left side. Pin it in place with the pins diagonal, making them easier to grab and remove. Here at the bottom of this photo you can see the right side will have a slight overlap. Step 4: Set the zipper foot to the left of the zipper and sew as close to the edge as you can. When you reach the bottom, do a small back-stitch to secure this side firmly in place. Step 5: Bring the right side up, even with the rest of your project. At this point, the zipper should be covered. Pin to hold it in place. Now, decide if you’d like to sew up from the bottom or down from the top. I’m choosing to sew up from the base of the zipper, so my pins are pointed down for easy removal. If you prefer to sew from the top, place them facing the opposite direction. Step 6: Start at the base and sew sideways, remembering to backstitch at the start. Sew from the folded edge to 3/8” from the fabric edge. Put your needle down, pivot, and begin sewing up the side of the zipper. Step 7: Continue sewing 3/8” from the fabric fold, removing pins as you go, until the entire zipper is attached. Now celebrate—you know how to add a lapped zipper!