I can’t begin to tell you how often I have looked at a piece of clothing and thought “that wasn’t made for me”, meaning – I knew instantly that it wouldn’t fit me, my body type, or lifestyle.
But I guess that’s the thing with garments, right? We mostly wear items that fit those three categories above (and possibly more)!
If you read my first interview posted under Curated By You, then you may remember that although I “knew” (quotes are important because it implies that I had a faint idea of something and could have faked it but wasn’t an expert) how to sew for many years, however, I didn’t really start sewing until the pandemic and garments were not my first project. Over the last few years, sewing clothing for me, myself, and I- has been empowering and a lesson in self-love.
The bias cut dress has historically been a “no fly zones” style. A cut that I continue scrolling if I come across it in online shopping, but also a cut that I always admire on other people. Especially as many 90’s and early 2000’s styles are making a resurgence, I can’t help but notice the bias cut dress everywhere.
I can be easily influenced by social media and fashion trends…So here we are, with the Nico Pattern! There are quite a bit of bias cut patterns out there, but I wanted to explore a somewhat easy-to-come together pattern using the IL019 All-purpose Softened Linen in Angora as a closet neutral.
The Nico Pattern has four length options, ranging from a tank to a maxi dress. I decided to go for a maxi length dress, channeling Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, in a luscious softened linen. I don’t want to lead you astray- I’m still on the fence about how this looks on me, but I am not on the fence about this pattern and making this dress.
Bias cut patterns aren’t as hard as I had imagined (one reason why I have not made any). Sure it takes a bit more fabric than I’m used to, but ultimately it was one piece with some extra bits and it came together quickly. The Nico Pattern instructions are simple and easily understandable. To ensure the pattern pieces were accurately on bias, I used a quilting ruler, and had no hiccups!
More importantly, the spot on measurements helped me perfect the fit. I used the finished measurements to determine my preferred fit- grading from a 4 bust to an 8 hip. With no toile, I was able to quickly cut and sew up a dress fit for a dinner alfresco, Los Angeles gallery hopping, or a lake swim cover up.
Sewing with the right patterns and instructions make a garment feel attainable. A sewist feels skilled. And a self-conscious mid-30 year old feels excited. I have a new perspective on bias cut garments after making the Nico dress. As I move into a season of self exploration and acceptance, trying a new style is exhilarating.