Newly Converted Bias Cut Garm Fan after Nico Pattern Review
I can’t begin to tell you how often I have looked at a piece of clothing and thought “that wasn’t made for me”, meaning – I knew instantly that it wouldn’t fit me, my body type, or lifestyle.
But I guess that’s the thing with garments, right? We mostly wear items that fit those three categories above (and possibly more)!
If you read my first interview posted under Curated By You, then you may remember that although I “knew” (quotes are important because it implies that I had a faint idea of something and could have faked it but wasn’t an expert) how to sew for many years, however, I didn’t really start sewing until the pandemic and garments were not my first project. Over the last few years, sewing clothing for me, myself, and I- has been empowering and a lesson in self-love.
The bias cut dress has historically been a “no fly zones” style. A cut that I continue scrolling if I come across it in online shopping, but also a cut that I always admire on other people. Especially as many 90’s and early 2000’s styles are making a resurgence, I can’t help but notice the bias cut dress everywhere.
I can be easily influenced by social media and fashion trends…So here we are, with the Nico Pattern! There are quite a bit of bias cut patterns out there, but I wanted to explore a somewhat easy-to-come together pattern using the IL019 All-purpose Softened Linen in Angora as a closet neutral.
The Nico Pattern has four length options, ranging from a tank to a maxi dress. I decided to go for a maxi length dress, channeling Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, in a luscious softened linen. I don’t want to lead you astray- I’m still on the fence about how this looks on me, but I am not on the fence about this pattern and making this dress.
Bias cut patterns aren’t as hard as I had imagined (one reason why I have not made any). Sure it takes a bit more fabric than I’m used to, but ultimately it was one piece with some extra bits and it came together quickly. The Nico Pattern instructions are simple and easily understandable. To ensure the pattern pieces were accurately on bias, I used a quilting ruler, and had no hiccups!
More importantly, the spot on measurements helped me perfect the fit. I used the finished measurements to determine my preferred fit- grading from a 4 bust to an 8 hip. With no toile, I was able to quickly cut and sew up a dress fit for a dinner alfresco, Los Angeles gallery hopping, or a lake swim cover up.
Sewing with the right patterns and instructions make a garment feel attainable. A sewist feels skilled. And a self-conscious mid-30 year old feels excited. I have a new perspective on bias cut garments after making the Nico dress. As I move into a season of self exploration and acceptance, trying a new style is exhilarating.
2 Comments
Jacqueline Arica
Slip skirts have become my signature. I’ve made three…black, navy & the LOVELY lagoon signature. They add polish and a refined femininity to my outfits. Their versatility cant be beat. Style with kitten heals and you are chic. Go with trainers or Converse to feel playful.
I’ve been planning my fall/winter wardrobe and would like to include a slim maxi dress. I hadn’t considered a slip dress because I made one once and wasn’t thrilled with how the bodice fit. I think NICO may be the answer! It’s free flowing so fitting should be easier and I have a team of experts to help me get it right! I’m feeling energized!
I adore Caitlin’s angora creation. I think it will become one of your favorite makes. xx
Trish Jakielski
You are correct – I recently revisited the bias cut with a skirt I got YEARS ago. As I tried it on to see if it still fit I was struck by how beautifully it flowed around my legs when I walked in it. It swayed gently around my legs with each step – I feel BEAUTIFUL in it simply for the way I FEEL in it!
When I looked more closely I realized it was a lovely old (aka 1980!) acetate crepe and was cut on the bias. The weight of the crepe (like your linen) is what made it hug the body without “exposing it”. When I find another crepe fabric with the perfect weight I will try making this pattern out of it. I will also try it in linen because it, too, is a fabric that just FEELS right on your body when you wear it – soft but holds its shape without sagging. THANKS for sharing your story and photos – it looks STUNNING on you (with those great sandals you must be a hit at the beach!)!