How many of you have sought to find “the” trouser? The trouser that sits exactly how you want it to on your waist? The trouser with the perfectly deep pleats that lay exactly where they should? The trouser with the ideal leg shape and inseam length, that you will never want for another trouser again?!? If you raised your hand or emphatically jumped up from your seat in excited solidarity with these words, then “YES!!” [With my arm raised, bent at the elbow, shaking my fist in the air] “Me as well!!!”
Last year, I started my hunt for the perfect trouser sewing pattern. Sure- I could have purchased something off the rack, or online, and it might have worked. But a sewist is always up for a challenge, amiright? Although I have not exhausted my pattern search, l have not found the perfect pair (remember- the “perfect trouser” is 100% subjective). They’re either too tight, too loose, the pleats are just wrong, the list goes on.
Before I get your hopes up about presenting the perfect trouser on a silver platter, I have to be forthright with you….I am still looking. BUT! I am getting closer and closer. One more note, more of a correction- I hastily shared that Vogue does not list finished garment measurements! Luckily, a reader told me that they DO! Although not as easily found compared to indie patterns, there are certain finished measurements printed on the tissue pieces themselves. My apologies.
“Caitlin- get to the trouser pattern already!”
I give you the Vogue 1688 x Rachel Comey trousers: loose-fitting silhouette, double front pleats, side pockets, and unique details like the leg panels (we all need some interest in our lives, right?!). Did I stumble upon “the” trouser?? I am obsessed with the way this 5 oz linen drapes and moves with the pleats and barrel shaped leg. The style is loose and comfortable, while still feeling tailored, and hello welt pocket! Very apropos to Comey. Although this pattern could have been drafted with no leg panels, or even a welt pocket- it is these details that make these trousers feel elevated. Like any multiple pattern piece garment- staying organized is always key. I used post-its to label my pattern pieces once cut, so I didn’t sew a leg to a waist, for example. Although they might not be “the” trouser, they hit the boxes that I was searching for. The trousers have a lot of ease in them (I sized down one full size) and next time, I would take in the waist at the back darts for a more fitted waistband.
These V1688 trousers are Dopamine Sewing, served to me with no strings attached. They are tailored, but relaxed. The linen is saturated, but a neutral. I added more interest by using a decorative stitch in matching thread to the belt loops. Dopamine dressing is all about wearing clothes that make you feel good, right?! When I wear these, I feel like I stepped out of a magazine.