Tudor Blouse made with DEEP ULTRAMARINE Midweight Linen worn with Deima Patterns Ribbed Trousers, Photography by Sophie Nawratil

Tudor Blouse made with DEEP ULTRAMARINE Midweight Linen worn with Deima Patterns Ribbed Trousers, Photography by Sophie Nawratil

Tudor Blouse made with DEEP ULTRAMARINE Midweight Linen worn with Deima Patterns Ribbed Trousers, Photography by Sophie Nawratil

Tudor Blouse made with DEEP ULTRAMARINE Midweight Linen worn with Deima Patterns Ribbed Trousers, Photography by Sophie Nawratil

Just like I announced in my last entry, today I would like to replace fear and anxiety with some inspiration.
Some of you might remember the keywords IRONING and ZIPPER. I will talk about both of these in some detail today. But I promise you, it’s not that horrible and it won’t hurt. You have Sophie’s word of honor.
But because I know that zippers and ironing do not sound super sexy for most, I would like to start with a mood board for today.

I have to confess, I love an Yves Klein Moment. No other color screams modern, loud yet timeless like his blue. Und especially nowadays I feel as if everything in that color wears a tag with my name on it. And I’m not mad. Now, because a bold color and scary topic need a comfort pattern, I decided to show you the Tudor Blouse pattern by Stitch Witch Patterns. The pattern actually asks for buttons instead of a zipper, but why not take on a little challenge.
I sewed my first zipper about 16 years ago. My mom had her first day of school as a teacher and my siblings and I made her a small pencil case which basically meant I sewed it and my siblings did the artwork (they were about 5 and 7 years old at that time). It was a mess, but to be honest – I still love it. AND my mum still uses it!

I sewed my second zipper this year – by accident. I fell crazy in love with the Milkmaid Dress by Lydia Naomi Studio and shortly afterwards I found myself at my moms, with the fabric, the pattern and the daunting realization that I had to sew in the inevitable invisible zipper.
But what happened then was honestly short and painless. But just take a look for yourself…

Before we start, I would like to add that I am no expert and that there are probably prettier, better and more efficient methods than this one, BUT I find this method easily feasible where you will surely reach the finish line. Allora!

The Invisible Zipper

Materials

All you need for your zipper-adventure are the following

Your Fabric Pieces, I used DEEP ULTRAMARINE Midweight Linen

An Invisible Zipper (surprise)

Iron

Pins

Sewing Machine

Zipper foot

I am not one to use or recommend thousands of gadgets, but a zipper foot is a game-changer. Once you go zipper foot you never go back.

Method

1. First of all, we mark the point where the zipper will end on our fabric. Notice that this mark should be a little above the actual ending of the zipper.

2. Sew the two pieces that border the zipper (right sides together) from the bottom up to your previously marked point in your usual stitch length + backstitch. Cut your thread and continue sewing above your marked point with your largest stitch (basting stitch).

3. Iron your seams open.

4. Open your basted seam.

5. Lay your zipper underneath your re-opened seam.

6. Pin it – so your fabrics close exactly above the zipper. (wrong side of the fabric – right side of the zipper)

7. Open the zipper a bit so you can sew without having any troubles with a zipper foot – zipper opening situation.

8. Now sew as close to the zipper as possible. When you reach the opening of the zipper, stop sewing with the needle still down. Lift the foot and turn your fabric to the side. Close your zipper, turn the fabric back in position, put the foot down again and continue sewing aside your zipper. (Repeat the same procedure at the end – but open the zipper)

9. Flip your fabric over the open end of the zipper. Stitch.

Done!

(Editor’s Note: If you are looking for a more traditional method of sewing the Invisible Zipper, we have this tutorial for you.)

The Visible Zipper

1. The same steps as for an invisible zipper BUT you don’t need a zipper foot because you don’t need to sew that closely to the zipper.

2. You start with basting your two fabrics right sides together.

3. Now iron your seam open.

4. Open your seam.

5. Pin your wrong side of the fabric on the right side of the zipper (you probably see fine lines on your zipper band – these can help you to position your fabric).

6. Sew.

7. Flip your fabric over the open end of your zipper. Stitch.

Done!

And that’s all the magic!

I hope I could help some of you (or at least show you, that crooked seams and crinkly fabrics are totally fine).

Bussi,

Sophie