The Ines top is a pretty basic boxy top with cropped length, side slits and an interesting lapped V-neck placket. It is simple in its look, construction and pairs with just about anything. The V placket is also easy to sew but it requires a bit of accuracy to get it perfect. In this tutorial, we will show you how to create this lapped V-neckline for a perfectly finished top.
For our sample size S pictured in this tutorial we used 2 yards of IL042 901 FS Premier Finish Medium Weight Linen. For other sizes, please refer to the yardage table in the PDF pattern to determine the required amount of fabric.
Matching sewing thread, lightweight fusible interfacing
Scissors, pins, ruler, chalk, measuring tape, fabric marker, sewing machine
You can access the multi-sized printable PDF pattern by following this link HERE. All seam allowances are included. The model is wearing size S.
Remember to transfer all the notches onto your fabric. Make sure to transfer the dots on the pattern to the right side of your front bodice and the wrong side of your outer neckband fabric pieces. Marking the stitching points for the placket opening is really important for the construction of the lapped V-neck.
Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, dry at room temperature. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.
1. Pin the front and back bodices right sides together at shoulders and stitch at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Finish the seams with your preferred method (serge or zigzag the raw edges together) to prevent fabric from fraying. Press towards the back.
2. To prevent the neckline from stretching, staystitch along the entire neck opening 3/16”-1/4” from the raw edge.
3. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of your inner V-neck placket pieces.
4. With right sides together, pin the center back neck edges of both sets of neckband pieces (outer and inner plackets) and stitch across the center back seam at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Press the seams open.
5. Align the inner and outer neckbands right sides together and pin along the inside edge of the curve matching the center back seams.
6. Stitch the two neckbands together at a 3/8” seam allowance. Then trim the seam down to ¼” and clip along the curve.
7. Press the seams open and press the raw edge of the inner (interfaced) neckband 3/8” to the wrong side.
8. Turn the neckbands right side out and press along the seamline making sure to roll it slightly to the underside.
9. Matching the center back seamline of the neckband to the center back notch of the back bodice, start pinning the right side of the outer neckband to the right side of your top. Match the shoulder notches to the shoulder seams and pin along the entire neck opening. Make sure to match the dots on the neckband to the dots on the front bodice.
10. Starting from the center back seam, stitch the right neckband to the bodice with a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance stopping exactly at the small dot. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and the end of the seam. Now stitch the left neckband in the same way.
11. Trim the seam allowance down to ¼” and then press the neckband and the seam allowance away from bodice.
12. Flip the front over and snip diagonally into the ends of the lines of stitching, 1/16” away from the dots. Be accurate and don’t snip past the dots, just close enough to allow the neckband to fit into the opening after being pulled over to the wrong side. Press the raw edge by just under 3/8” (1cm) to the wrong side.
13. Pull the neckband over to the wrong side and pin the pressed edge to the bodice slightly covering the line of stitching. Double check that your neckband is laid out at and not twisted as we’re now going to attach it to the top.
14. Working from the right side, stitch the neckband in place in the ditch of your seam. When you come to the lapped ends at the V-point, pivot your work with the needle still in the fabric and edgestitch across the horizontal edge as close to the folded edge as possible. Stop just in time to pivot again and continue stitching the other edge of the neckband.
15. Trim the excess fabric and finish all layers together with a serger or a zigzag stitch.
The most difficult part is over, now you just need to assemble the side seams and hem the top.
16. Finish the raw side seam edges of the front and back bodices using your preferred method.
17. Pin and stitch the side seams right sides together at a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance stopping at the vent notch. Remember to backstitch.
18. Press the seam open including the vent seam allowances. Edgestitch the vent in place 1/4” from the folded edge creating a rectangular box.
19. Finish the sleeve openings with a rolled hem. Fold your fabric ¼” to the wrong side and press. Then press another ¾” and edgestitch in place.
20. Hem the bottom of the top by folding your fabric twice to the wrong side (1/4” to ¾”) and edgestitch.
Give your top one last good press and you are all done!
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