Oversized clothing is great because it allows you to layer up, and gives you the flexibility to play with the way these clothes sit on your body. This knee-length oversized linen dress has a relaxed, oversized fit and is punctuated by a front slit and pockets. We like it layered over a thin turtleneck sweater.
2.5 yards of IL019 Mix Natural Softened
Matching sewing thread
Pattern master, pattern paper
Paper scissors, fabric scissors
Fabric marker, pins, tape measure
Bias tape maker
Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, dry in room temperature.
1. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with.
2. The diagram shows the pattern for US size 4-6 (UK size 8-10).’ Remember to add 3/8in (1cm) seam allowance around all panels. If you need help grading your pattern, please follow this tutorial.
3. Use a serger, or choose your own method to protect the seams from fraying. Make sure the method you choose does not add weight to the fabric.
4. Place both panels one on top of each other, with the wrong side facing out. Pin together the shoulder seams, stitch along and press open.
5.’ Match the notched centre point of the sleeve to the sewn shoulder seam, pin along the whole width of the sleeve panel. Stitch along, but leave 3/8 in (1cm) of the material unsewn at both ends of the sleeve panel.
6. Pin the pocket panels together to create two pairs of small pockets. Stitch along the seam, but leave the top 3/8 in (1cm) seam allowance stitch free, this is to make it easier to pin onto the bodice panels.
7. With the right side of the front bottom bodice panel facing you, and the pocket’s wrong sides facing outwards, take the top pocket panel and match it to the notched marks you have made on the top seam of the bottom bodice panel. Make sure the bottom panel of the pocket is not caught. Sew along this seam, leaving 3/8 in (1cm) free at both sides.
8. Press the new seam.
9. Once both pockets are sewn onto its respective side of the bottom bodice panel, pin the bodice panels together at the centre seam with their wrong side facing outwards, leaving 3 in (8cm) of slit opening at the bottom. Stitch along this pinned line and press open.
9. Now, with its wrong side facing you, pin the top bodice panel to the bottom bodice panel. Where the pockets are, pin the unstitched pocket panel onto the top bodice. Turn this onto the right side to make sure you didn’t catch any unwanted material at this opening. Stitch along this and press open.
10.’ Pin together the sleeve seam as well as the bodice side seam. Stitch along the pinned edge and press open.
11.’ Next, we will finish all hems except for the neckline. In all cases, the seam allowance should be folded inwards onto its wrong side, so essentially onto the inside of your dress. Start with the sleeve hems. Press the sleeve hems on both arms.’ Top stitch over this.
10. Continue pressing the bottom hems, including the slit. Top stitch over this pressed edge.
10. Following this tutorial, make around 1 yard of bias tape.
11.’ Leave 1.15 inch (3cm) of tail unpinned, then proceed to pin the tape along the collar, leave around 1.5 inch (4cm) gap from your first pin. Leave 1.15 inch (3cm) of tails at the end of pinning.
12.’ Stitch along this pinned edge.
13. Then, manually match up the remaining unpinned edge and fold the tape backwards, forming a distinctive fold line.
14. With the wrong side of the tape facing outwards, pin along this folded line. Stitch along the line and press. Trim away any excess fabric.
15.’ Refold the tape onto its right side and pin onto the remaining hem, top stitched over and press.