Following on from our previous tutorial, this week we will look at’ how you can’ grade a pattern.
This’ tutorial is’ aimed at those who are new to sewing, therefor the methods shown will cover the most basic techniques. In the future, we will revisit methods of grading for more complex seams or patterns.
Continuing on from the previous tutorial, we will be grading the bodice of a dress tutorial which we will post next week.
Pens (in various colours if it helps)
Pattern master/French curve
For the pattern paper, it is always better to have a long continuous roll, or a big piece of paper. However if you do not have access to it, you can always attach smaller pieces of paper together with sellotape. Also having markings on your pattern paper will help a great deal when you are drawing straight lines.
Below is the pattern diagram depicting the front panel of a bodice pattern.
1. After drafting this pattern, following our‘ tutorial from last week, you begin by making sure you won’t tamper with the centre seam. This is because when you are enlarging a pattern, you always want to expand it outwards, instead of inwards.
2. Following the specification of the tutorial, work on the straight seams and expand the bottom and side seams. In this tutorial we have decided to grade’ the pattern up by 2 sizes and will add 3/4 inch (2cm) to the specified seams.
3. For the width of the armhole, you want to expand it by adding to it from the side seam, without tampering with the inner part of the curve. So we will just add 3/4inch (2cm) from the already marked side seam to the original start point of the width.
4. Next, increase the length/height of the armhole. When working on a curve, you never want the beginning and the end of the curve to have expanded the same distance, as this will just have an effect of adding on seam allowance and doesn’t increase the size of the opening. So for this tutorial, as we have broken the length of the armhole into three parts, we will keep the bottom and top part the same length, only adding in 3/4inch (2cm) to the middle part (also the straight seam) of the armhole seam.
5. For the bottom section of the armhole curve, just use a french curve and join the side seam and the start of this section. Making sure the curve is wider than previously marked.
6. For the top of the armhole, increase the width of the armhole (from the top point of its length) by 3/8 inch – 1/2 inch depending how much more coverage you would like on your shoulder strap. This new measurement is done at a right angle to the armhole length.
7. Next, join the two points with a french curve, again remembering the curve to be wider than the previously marked one.
8. For the collar, this is a little trickier as you do not add the usual 3/8 inch (1cm) per size to expand its curve because your chest and neck area does not measure the same way as your bust and waist would. So instead, you will add half of what you need for your required size, and add it below the seam indicated on the pattern diagram. So in this tutorial, we will lower the width of collar seam by 3/8 inch (1cm).
9. For its height, aside from adding on the 3/8 inch (1cm) extra from lowering the width seam, you will also add on 3/4 inch (2cm) at the top because not only will the collar need to be bigger, the strap will need to be longer in order to go across the shoulder.
10. Join the top of the new height seam to the new lowered width seam with a french curve. Also, join the new width of the top section of armhole to the new point for the collar height. Because both of these seams were increased by 3/4 inch (2cm) in terms of height, this should lie parallel to the original shoulder seam.
11. Now following the previous tutorial, add on the seam allowance to the new graded seams of the pattern.
With this tutorial, you will now be able to draft plenty more patterns without difficulties and realise some of the projects which you might not have been able to complete before.
Also, check out our great range of linens and see what you would like to create next.