Starting a new sewing project is always exciting. But there is nothing more frustrating than running out of fabric halfway through… or ending up with scraps that aren’t quite big enough for anything useful (trust me, I’ve been there! I have a whole drawer full of pieces like this). If you’re working with a commercial…
All posts by Emma Cartmel
Every garment needs seam allowance—it’s a crucial part of garment construction. Sometimes it’s already included in the pattern; other times, it may need to be added, especially when working with a self-drafted pattern or after making adjustments. Seam allowance is the extra fabric added around the edges of a pattern piece. It creates space between…
Dart manipulation is a pattern making technique used to reposition a dart on a garment without altering or adjusting its overall fit. Essentially, it’s a way to move the shaping in your pattern to a new location. Dart manipulation lets you customise a sewing pattern to suit your design preferences. Whether you want to move…
In Part 1 of this tutorial, I covered the fundamentals of truing—aligning seam lines, smoothing curves, and refining edges—to create polished, professional patterns. Now, in Part 2, I will dive a bit deeper into more specialised examples of truing—hems, darts, and seam allowances. These details require a little more attention to ensure they blend smoothly…
Truing is all about ensuring that the edges, curves, and seam lines of a pattern come together seamlessly during sewing. This important step helps prevent common issues like mismatched seams, uneven hems, and awkward transitions. By smoothing out sharp points and irregular lines, the garment will have a more polished, and professional finish. Since there…
Overlockers (or sergers) are great for giving sewing projects a polished, professional finish. Let’s face it though, threading them can feel like a real hassle, even for the more experienced sewist. But don’t worry, I’ve got a simple trick to make the process that little bit easier. While it’s not foolproof, it works more often…
Pressing is one of those often-overlooked steps in sewing, but trust me—it’s worth it. Sure, it might feel like an extra hassle at the time, but it’s the secret to achieving a perfectly finished garment. So, what exactly is pressing, and why does it matter? Unlike ironing, which involves gliding the iron back and forth…
I still remember the excitement—and slight overwhelm—I felt when I first received my pattern-making kit at university. The tools, some of which I had never seen before, felt very foreign to me. However, it didn’t take long for them to become second nature, and pattern making soon became my favourite subject. The freedom that comes…
Choosing fabrics is one of the most exciting parts of any sewing project, but to be honest it can sometimes feel a bit overwhelming, no matter how long you’ve been sewing. With so many options out there, each with its own unique qualities, fabric choice can make a big difference in the fit, comfort, and…
We all know that exciting feeling of bringing home a beautiful new fabric, and all you want to do is dive in and start cutting. But, before we begin, there’s an important step we shouldn’t skip: pre-washing your fabric. Sure, it may not be the most exciting task, but pre-washing our fabric can save a…
Have you ever held back from sharing your sewing or pattern ideas because you were afraid that others might not take them seriously? Do you tend to stick with the same patterns and fabrics because they’re familiar and feel safe, even though you know there’s so much more out there to try? Maybe you’ve avoided…
New to sewing or pattern making and feeling a bit overwhelmed by all the terminology? From draping to selvedges, this mini glossary has got you covered! Armscye: The armhole opening in a garment where the sleeve is attached. Basting (or tacking): Temporary stitching, either done by hand or machine, that is used to hold pieces…
I’ll admit it—I’m guilty of not changing my sewing machine needles as often as I should, and I’m sure I’m not alone in this! However, I have gotten better over time, recognising just how much these small tools can impact the outcome of a sewing project. Picking the right needle can improve stitch quality, make…
When you open a sewing pattern for the first time, the different lines, symbols, and shapes can seem a little overwhelming, especially if you’re new to sewing. However, they typically follow a similar format no matter which pattern company you’re using. As you become familiar with them, understanding these markings will eventually become second nature,…
Empathy is a concept that I am sure most of you are familiar with, but what about applying it to our relationship with our wardrobes? When considering the production of “fashion” we often don’t think about the fact that our clothes have passed through many hands to make it into our wardrobes. Farmers, spinners, dyers,…
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