Put simply, drape refers to how a fabric falls and behaves when worn. It can range from stiff and structured to soft and flowing. Drape plays a really important role in shaping the look and feel of a garment. You could sew the same pattern twice using two different fabrics, and depending on the level…
All posts by Emma Cartmel
Ease is the difference between your body measurements and the finished garment measurements. It’s calculated using a simple formula: Finished garment measurement — Body measurement = Ease Ease plays a crucial role in how clothes fit, feel, and function. It determines whether a garment feels comfortable and moves naturally with the body, or feels too…
Grading is the process of creating different sizes from a single base pattern or block. It doesn’t alter the design itself but instead scales the base pattern up or down to accommodate a range of body sizes, such as going from a size XXS to a size 4XL. This allows a single design to fit…
If you’ve already read Part 1 of this tutorial, you will hopefully have a good understanding of when blending between sizes on a sewing pattern can come in handy. Let’s get into how to actually do it. In this Part 2, I will walk you through the basic process using a few different examples. I’ll…
Let’s be honest—finding a sewing pattern that perfectly matches your measurements is pretty rare. And that makes sense! Every body is unique, fit preferences vary, and each pattern brand uses its own sizing system. If you find yourself falling between sizes, you’re not alone. But the beauty of sewing is that in these situations, you…
Starting a new sewing project is always exciting. But there is nothing more frustrating than running out of fabric halfway through… or ending up with scraps that aren’t quite big enough for anything useful (trust me, I’ve been there! I have a whole drawer full of pieces like this). If you’re working with a commercial…
Every garment needs seam allowance—it’s a crucial part of garment construction. Sometimes it’s already included in the pattern; other times, it may need to be added, especially when working with a self-drafted pattern or after making adjustments. Seam allowance is the extra fabric added around the edges of a pattern piece. It creates space between…
Dart manipulation is a pattern making technique used to reposition a dart on a garment without altering or adjusting its overall fit. Essentially, it’s a way to move the shaping in your pattern to a new location. Dart manipulation lets you customise a sewing pattern to suit your design preferences. Whether you want to move…
In Part 1 of this tutorial, I covered the fundamentals of truing—aligning seam lines, smoothing curves, and refining edges—to create polished, professional patterns. Now, in Part 2, I will dive a bit deeper into more specialised examples of truing—hems, darts, and seam allowances. These details require a little more attention to ensure they blend smoothly…
Truing is all about ensuring that the edges, curves, and seam lines of a pattern come together seamlessly during sewing. This important step helps prevent common issues like mismatched seams, uneven hems, and awkward transitions. By smoothing out sharp points and irregular lines, the garment will have a more polished, and professional finish. Since there…
Overlockers (or sergers) are great for giving sewing projects a polished, professional finish. Let’s face it though, threading them can feel like a real hassle, even for the more experienced sewist. But don’t worry, I’ve got a simple trick to make the process that little bit easier. While it’s not foolproof, it works more often…
Pressing is one of those often-overlooked steps in sewing, but trust me—it’s worth it. Sure, it might feel like an extra hassle at the time, but it’s the secret to achieving a perfectly finished garment. So, what exactly is pressing, and why does it matter? Unlike ironing, which involves gliding the iron back and forth…
I still remember the excitement—and slight overwhelm—I felt when I first received my pattern-making kit at university. The tools, some of which I had never seen before, felt very foreign to me. However, it didn’t take long for them to become second nature, and pattern making soon became my favourite subject. The freedom that comes…
Choosing fabrics is one of the most exciting parts of any sewing project, but to be honest it can sometimes feel a bit overwhelming, no matter how long you’ve been sewing. With so many options out there, each with its own unique qualities, fabric choice can make a big difference in the fit, comfort, and…
We all know that exciting feeling of bringing home a beautiful new fabric, and all you want to do is dive in and start cutting. But, before we begin, there’s an important step we shouldn’t skip: pre-washing your fabric. Sure, it may not be the most exciting task, but pre-washing our fabric can save a…
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