Pattern Review: Capucine Ensemble in Tender Lilas Linen
After making the Capucine bathrobe, I was really excited to make the Capucine pajamas because I knew they were going to be excellent in both quality and feel. I also knew this project was going to work my brain a little harder to achieve the similar thorough details and steps that I worked on with my robe. I love a good challenge, and while this pattern isn’t necessarily challenging, it is a great pattern for slowing yourself down in order to get high quality results. This is a marathon, not a sprint, baby.
Once again, the instructions for this pattern were excellent! I love the booklet that comes with the printed pattern. It’s nice to have it right there next to me as I’m sewing. For the most part, the illustrations are very comprehensive. My only criticism in general is that sometimes it can be hard to remember which side is the right vs wrong side. It would be nice to have a little key at the top of each page as a reminder!
For the Capucine top, I decided to go with short sleeves. I also ended up taking quite a bit off the length since I wanted it to hit just around hip length. Overall, I’m really happy with the top and how it turned out! I will say, I’m interested to know what it would’ve felt like making the sleeves long, because the sleeves do pull just a little bit when I lift my arms. It doesn’t bother me since they’re short though.
The pants. I was initially very concerned that they wouldn’t fit me, simply because I have a juicy booty and usually tend to need adjustments in the fit of the crotch when it comes to pants. I’m team “no toile” (I know, I know!), so I trusted the chart to the fullest and was pleasantly surprised to be wrong in my apprehensions! In sewing up my size per the measurement chart, these fit perfectly. I also usually add length when I make pants, but I didn’t add any to these and they hit right at my ankle where I wanted them to. Super pleased with the fit on these, as well as the top!
Here are a few things I noticed on the pants that I would’ve done differently or wanted added to the pattern itself, that I thought others might find helpful.
- The seam allowances on the French seams for the inner thigh seam were not quite wide enough to account for the first seam you sew when making the French seams. It says to sew it at a “scant” ¼ inch SA, which even when done, leaves bits of the frayed edge sticking out when you then sew another ¼ inch seam allowance to enclose. I would suggest sewing your first seam at a ¼ inch, but then your second seam to enclose at 3/8 inch seam allowance.
- I’m not sure how this could be adjusted or changed since the side seams are finished with flat felled seams. But it’s quite bulky right at the pocket seam on the wrong side and quite hard to get that bulked up area to lay flat into a flat felled seam. It turned out ok? But I would give that area a 4/10 on looking really clean in finish on the inside.
- As a personal preference, I sewed my waistband casing closed first before inserting my waistband. I knew that was going to be wayyy less fiddly than trying to sew my waistband down with the elastic in there and also trying to get it nice and neat.
- I did not interface my waistband ties, knowing how the tie/belt felt on the Capucine robe with being interfaced. Out of preference, I knew I wanted a softer feel to the ties since I plan to be at maximum lounging when wearing these 😉
- Lastly, I used 1.5” elastic on the waistband rather than 2” because it looked like it would’ve been a really tight squeeze with the 2”. Granted, this might’ve been less of a squeeze had I done the waistband per the instructions with putting it in first and then sewing it down. I would’ve been able to adapt the width of the casing as I sewed to make sure it didn’t fold the elastic over from being too tight. Not a deal breaker by any means! The 1.5” elastic works really well here, too.
And last but not least, once again, this linen from the Fabrics Store is so delicious, comfortable, and breathable. I’m excited for it to only get better from here as it softens even more in the laundry. I love sewing with it!
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