Dilakshi in FS Hana Midi Dress made with FS IL019 Bleached midweight linen

Buying fabric online can be overwhelming. You can’t feel the texture, see how it drapes, or know if it will work for your project until it arrives. I’ve been there—staring at endless fabric choices, wondering if I’m making the right decision. That’s why I want to help you visualize IL019 All-Purpose Midweight linen so you can almost feel it through the screen.

If there’s one linen I always reach for, it’s this one. It’s the perfect balance of durability, softness, and versatility. From garments to home decor to accessories, IL019 is that fabric that always seems to be the right choice.

Binue in a dress inspired by water made with FS IL019 Bleached Softened midweight linen

Why IL019 is So Popular

At 5.3 oz per square yard, IL019 hits that sweet spot between light and heavy. You don’t need to worry about this linen being sheer, and it’s structured enough to hold its shape but soft enough to drape beautifully. The tight weave gives it a smooth, refined look, while its breathability makes it comfortable to wear year-round.

And the best part? When you wash and wear it, it softens even more, creating that perfect lived-in linen look that’s both cozy and elegant.

This is the kind of linen that works for just about everything—dresses, pants, button-up shirts, lightly tailored blazers, pajamas, curtains, napkins, and tote bags and zipper pouches. Once you sew with it, you’ll see why it’s a staple in so many sewing rooms.

Mel in FS Riva Shirt and Shorts made with FS IL019 Bleached Signature Finish midweight linen and Mix Natural midweight linen

What You Should Consider When Choosing the Right Linen for Your Project

You’ll find several types of IL019 in the collection, and each one has its own personality. The most important concept to consider is the fabric’s finish and how that affects its wearability, including how much it shrinks.

The Art of Linen Finishing

Linen is spun from flax fibers, creating a fabric that is both strong and breathable, with a natural texture that softens beautifully over time.

Without any treatment, raw linen is crisp, structured, and slightly stiff—the perfect blank canvas you can wear over and over until it adapts to your body. But different finishing techniques will pre-soften linen and ‘kick start’ its natural process of softening. If you have used linen before, you will know how wonderfully linen softens over time with washing and wearing, so if you want to make a luxuriously soft linen item without the wait, opt for a finished linen. Here are all the finishing options for Fabrics Store linen.

• No Finish: Imagine crisp linen fresh off the loom and in its purest form. Linen without finish is ready for embroidery, printing, or dyeing. To soften faster, dry it with dryer balls or add a natural fabric softener to the wash cycle.
• Softened: This linen has been coaxed into softness with fabric softener, leaving it smoother and silkier while retaining its natural body. The linen has not been laundered so you’ll have to consider shrinkage.
• Signature Finish: The ultimate luxury, and the reason why this line of linen is so popular. Through an intricate multi-step process, this linen is softened to perfection, making it feel like you’ve worn and loved it for years. A gentle rolling technique gives it that signature crumpled, relaxed look. 

Sophie wears the Florence Dress made with FS IL019 Bleached Signature Finish Linen

How Linen Shrinks and Why It Matters

Linen, like all natural fibers, shifts and adapts when exposed to water and heat. This means that shrinkage is a natural part of the process, but understanding it can help you plan ahead so your final project turns out just right.

• No Finish: Untreated linen experiences the most shrinkage—around 10%—so pre-washing is essential, and you may need to purchase additional yardage.
• Softened: Expect shrinkage in the 7-10% range since the fabric has been softened but not pre-shrunk.
• Signature Finish: With most of the shrinkage removed during processing, this linen shrinks the least—only around 3%—allowing you to cut with confidence.

To get the best results, always pre-wash your fabric before sewing, especially if using a Softened or No Finish linen. Wash linen on a gentle cycle with cool to warm water and tumble dry on low heat to preserve its texture and drape. Here is a handy guide on how to pre-wash your linens. 

A Closer Look At IL019 Linens

Lauren in FS Cameron Blouse made with FS Il019 Bleached midweight linen

Bleached, Bleached Softened and Bleached Signature Finish

Flax fibers have a color that naturally falls somewhere between beige and light gray. Bleached linen has the natural flax color removed, leaving behind a soft, slightly off-white shade. It’s the perfect base for dyeing if you want to create your own custom colors. Untreated Bleached linen has a crisper hand, so it will feel stiffer as you first work with it. You’ll find it holds its shape more and has a bit less drape, but since linen softens with each wash and wear, the texture will evolve over time. Choose this if you’d like your linen to soften and wear according to the individual garment you’re making.

Bleached Softened fabric has had a softener added to give the fabric a smoother texturer. This linen has not been laundered so you have to consider shrinkage.

Bleached Signature Finish is the most luxurious option takes it a step further. It’s specially processed to be incredibly soft, almost cloud-like to the touch. 

Warlene wears FS Akira Set made with FS IL019 Natural midweight linen

Natural and Natural Softened

Natural is linen in its purest form. It has the undyed, natural color of flax, straight from the earth. Depending on the harvest, it can be slightly more beige or gray, which gives it a unique, organic charm.

Natural Softened has been treated to make it feel silkier, but keep in mind it hasn’t been pre-shrunk, so you’ll need to factor in some shrinkage when cutting your project.

Mel in FS Riva Shorts made FS IL019 Mix Natural Midweight Linen

Mix Natural and Mix Natural Softened

If you love natural, earthy tones, Mix Natural is a beautiful option. This linen is made by weaving one bleached thread and one natural flax-colored thread together, creating a soft grayish-beige shade. It has an organic, sophisticated look that pairs beautifully with neutral palettes. It’s especially stunning for table linens and napkins, but I also love it for relaxed linen tops and pants. Mix Natural without treatment is crisp and stiffer to the touch. Just keep wearing it and washing it, and it will soften up to that perfect texture we all love from linen.

Mix Natural Softened fabric is softer to the touch, you will love working with this cloth straight from the delivery box. As with all Softened fabrics, don’t forget to calculate shrinkage as it hasn’t been pre-washed. 

Alisha wears Linen Wrap Dress made with FS IL019 Dusty Lotus Midweight Linen

Signature Finish Colored Linen

If you want linen that feels soft from the very first touch and stays that way, pick from nearly 90 Signature Finish colors. You’ll find a mix of earthy, vibrant, or calming colors, an option for any project you can think of.

Choose Optic White or Antique White for a button-up that lends itself to work, travel, and everyday wear. Evergreen would make a pair of classic elastic waist pants. Make a statement with a boxy tee in a bold color, like Autumn Gold or Crimson.

All of the Signature Finish linens are pre-shrunk, meaning less fabric loss when you wash them, so you can grab a few colors at once.

Aluma’s niece wears a dresses made with FS Mix Natural Linen

Why IL019 Belongs in Your Fabric Stash

IL019 is the kind of linen that never sits in my stash for long. Every time I pull out a piece, I immediately have a vision for it—a breezy summer dress, a perfectly slouchy pair of linen pants, a set of linen napkins that will get softer with every wash. It’s my go-to because it’s reliable, versatile, and feels luxurious without the high-end price tag. If you’ve ever been unsure about buying linen online, this is the one to start with. Once you sew with IL019, you’ll keep coming back for more.