Linen has been one of my favourite fabrics to sew and wear ever since I started sewing. It has the perfect blend of drape and structure, it can be the most satisfying fabric to work with, and it’s an absolute dream to wear in all seasons. Today I’m sharing seven of my favourite sewing patterns for linen fabric, as well as some recommendations on the weight of linen I would use for each pattern.

1. Riva Shorts – Fabrics Store

Size range: US 2-24, Hip: 36 1/4” – 55” (93 – 140 cm)

I’ve made by first Riva Shorts two years ago to review them here, and they have immediately become the cornerstone of my summer wardrobe. I used the stunning 1C64 softened mid-weight linen in the black colour, and it ended up being the perfect fabric choice for this pattern. These high waisted shorts have an A-line shape, double pleats on the front, welt pockets on the back, and a unique shaped waistband. The pattern really benefits from linen’s perfect blend of soft drape and crisp structure – the result is a super comfortable and breezy pair of summer shorts that still manage to look smart and classic. I would recommend using medium to heavy weight linens that are opaque for this pattern.

2. Olya Shirt – Paper Theory

Size range: UK 6-28, Bust: 31 1/2” – 56” (80 – 142 cm)

The Olya Shirt by Paper Theory has long been my favourite sewing pattern, and it’s by far the pattern I’ve sewn the most. I think my total count is at 13, and a good portion of those are made out of linen. This is Tara’s take on a classic shirt pattern with a modern twist: it’s an oversized cut that combines the front yoke with the sleeves, creating a cool 90 degree angle at the back of the shoulders. The construction is engaging, and the resulting shirt is incredibly easy to style and wear. I love a billowy linen button up, and the boxy fit of the Olya works perfectly for light to medium weight linens. I’ve made a lightweight while linen one, a chartreuse lightweight linen one, a hand embroidered medium weight linen one, and I have a super lightweight yarn dyed linen one cut and ready to be sewn. The lighter weights work perfectly for summer, but you could easily use a medium or even heavy weight linen as an over shirt.

3. Genra Shirt – Daughter Judy Patterns

Size range: US 0-34, Bust: 32 1/2” – 60” (82.5 – 152.5 cm)

The Genra Shirt by Daughter Judy Patterns is a recent favourite for me. It has the perfect, elegant notched collar and lapel, an oversized fit with dropped shoulders, and a lovely split and curved hem. The versions I’ve made have been slightly modified to have shorter sleeves and a cropped, square hem, and they have been the perfect summer tops I’ve been looking for. I used an open weave, light to medium weight linen for my first version, and finished all the seams by a hand sewn invisible flat fell stitch. It looks great on the inside and out, and it’s already one of my most worn tops.

4. Block Tee – Paper Theory

Size range: UK 6-28, Bust: 31 1/2” – 56” (80 – 142 cm)

Another favourite from Paper Theory is their Block Tee – it’s an oversized tee pattern for woven fabrics, featuring interesting angular style lines on the front and the back that are created by in-set sleeves. The lightweight, white linen version I’ve made with a modified neckline has been my perfect staple white tee ever since I made it 3 years ago. I love that the seams appear more opaque on this lightweight linen, accentuating the unique style lines of the pattern. I’m planning to make another lightweight linen version in a brown or chartreuse linen, depending on what I can source.

5. Classic Shirt – Modern Sewing Co.

Size range: UK 4-28, Bust: 29 1/2” – 51 1/2” (75 – 131 cm)

The Classic Shirt by Modern Sewing Co. is exactly what it sounds like – the perfect, modernised classic shirt pattern. It has fitted shoulders, set-in sleeves, a classic collar and a curved split hem with a slight A-line shape. I made a couple of linen versions, one using a medium weight printed linen and one using a deadstock, lightweight linen from Zegna with the most beautiful green-red colour shift. I much prefer my lighter weight version, the pattern really benefits from the extra drape that comes with a lighter weight linen, but I think a medium weight linen would work best for an over shirt.

6. Helena Wrap Dress / Top – Just Patterns

Size range: EU 34-60, Bust: 31 1/2” – 57 1/2” (80 – 146 cm)

I don’t wear dresses, but I fell in love with the top half of the Helena Wrap Dress by Just Patterns so I decided to make a modified version of the pattern as a top using some light to medium weight off-white linen. This pattern has stunning dolman sleeves that are accented with stiffened arm bands, a beautiful V neckline featuring a unique construction, and a wide, shaped waistband with long ties. The crisp structure that comes with linen fabric carries the silhouette of the pattern beautifully, while making the construction a bit easier as well.

7. Coe Trousers – Daughter Judy Patterns

Size range: US 0-34, Hip: 35 1/2” – 66 1/2” (90 – 169 cm).

Coe Trousers by Daughter Judy are a very recent favourite in my wardrobe – so much so that I haven’t yet had time to finish my linen pair! I’ve cut out some lovely, softened, medium weight linen in black to sew as my third pair, and I can already tell it’s going to be a dream to wear all spring and summer. This high-rise pair of trousers feature a unique, twisted barrel leg shape, elevating the classic wide-leg pant silhouette. The back of the trousers wrap up to the front, shaping the legs and creating a gentle horseshoe shape. I’d recommend going with a medium or heavy weight linen for this pattern, so that the structure doesn’t get lost in the drape.

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If the pattern I’m using could possibly be made out of linen, then I usually sew up a linen version. There are a couple of patterns that I’ve been planning to sew in linen, but haven’t yet found the perfect fabric for. I’m particularly excited to sew a Jesse Jumpsuit by Modern Sewing Co., and a Veronica Vest by Just Patterns. I would love to hear about your favourite patterns for linen, maybe I’ll discover a new favourite for myself! :o)