Pattern Review: Lily Dress in Insignia Blue Linen
Of all the Fabric Store pattern collections, I’d been circling back time and time again on the Lily. The Lily collection is a generous set of Henley placket dress, tunic, shirt, and additional skirt. The looks are timeless. The techniques you can learn through Fabric Store patterns are top-notch. But more than anything, this set gives you a fantastic base to launch your creativity.
For this make, I chose the dress view to create a look I was inspired by at the Vintage Market in Palm Springs. It’s modeled on a classic desert caftan or Tuareg tunic popularized in the 70s but with a modern, minimalist approach. I chose this blue in homage to the Saharan daraa or boubou that have been worn in captivating shades of blue since the nomadic peoples of those regions began trading in indigo.
What is it about blue that calls to us? Blue is associated with harmony, faith, imagination, and confidence. Blue is the most popular color chosen by men and women in US and European opinion polls. Blue represents purity, devotion, divinity, and transcendence in the world’s religions. During the reign of Louis the IX of France, blue was restricted to the nobility and implied dignity and wealth. Recently, during a visit with a shaman of some renown, I was told my aura shimmered a blue hue associated with communication, expression, and intuition. Whether that planted the seed in my mind to explore blue or whether the impulse already existed, choosing blue linen from Fabric Stores’ gorgeous hues was one of the best parts of this project.
For the construction of the Lily dress, I made some topical modifications to lock in the caftan vibe. I’ve added an oval yoke piece on either side of the button placket (I used the Merchant & Mills The Shirt Dress Pattern for a guide here). Instead of a squared-off placket end, I finished with a triangle shape.
The pocket construction is one of the most unique and beautiful features of the dress, tunic, and skirt view. The side seams of the garment are offset towards the front, making the pockets lightly set at the front of the hip. The pocket construction creates a beautiful opening detail, and visible seams attach the bag to the backside of the garment. I modified the pocket to a rounded shape reflective of the added yoke. I also rounded the hemline for a cohesive effect.
Finally, I adjusted the sleeve. Instead of adding a button cuff, I kept it open, increasing the width and adding a big hem to fold it up.
I’m absolutely in love with how this dress turned out. I know I will be making more views of this collection. Who knows where my imagination will take me next time, but the Lily will always be a great place to launch.
2 Comments
Charlotte Switzer
I love the blue and the oval yoke you added. Great job!
Karen Baen
I love this blue. The modifications you’ve made are lovely. I especially like your sleeve choice.