PATTERN REVIEW: Riva Pants In Midweight Linen
I used to struggle with choosing pants I go to work with. In Silicon Valley, the dress code is business casual. If you come for an interview for a tech job, the recruiter would repeat three times — don’t wear a suit. The RIVA linen pants are the perfect middle-ground between suit pants and jeans, while still being perfect for getting some boba or cold brew with friends after work.
RIVA pants have all the delicate features of suit pants — double welts back pockets, side pockets, covered zipper, waist band. But the double pleats alongside the pockets release all the tension from a pair of formal suit pants into a generously flowing garment. I love the feeling of freedom and relaxation being in wide leg pants. The waistband is definitely the highlight of RIVA pants, the curve and small geometric shapes at the center back give a feel of focus and independence.
RIVA pattern is the most beautifully made pattern I have ever seen. It felt like Christmas when it was delivered. It came with a delicate cylinder box that includes hangers for already cut patterns. Both pattern and instructions are printed with premium quality paper. It was a difficult moment to start cutting on such nice paper.
I used FS Gray Cashmere midweight linen to make RIVA pants. I love the way fabrics-store names their colors as much as I love the fabric itself. This soft gray cannot be better described than ‘cashmere’, it is gentle and modest.
RIVA pants are a labor of love. There are many techniques you can learn from this pattern. The pattern does a good job breaking down big procedures into small steps. The fit is perfect for me, it is true to size. The welt pockets cutting through the back darts is the most satisfying part of the look of the pants. I practiced sewing the double welt pockets on muslin fabric before I sewed on the official one. I played with the size and opening of the welt, and sewed 2 different types of double welts on each side. I also oversized the back pockets to fit in my large phone. I would prefer the side pockets to be larger too, so my hands can easily rest in the pockets. There is a nice detail in the pattern, to overlock stitch the seam of the pockets. It makes the pocket really sturdy, no stress of breaking the pockets.
These pants are all about details, every iron after every seam pays off. The instructions are very consice. They specify where iron needs to come in, and which direction the seam should be ironed towards. I actually bought a mini iron in the middle of sewing RIVA pants, it is very handy and makes the finish much nicer. I had to re-do the waist band because I didn’t follow each iron step. Linen is a fairly easy type of fabric to work with, but it can distort a lot. Ironing the fabric before cutting it will save you a lot of time and headache. The pattern instructs to serge most of the interior seams. If you don’t have a serger, you can try French seams or zigzag stitch to lock the raw edges. Linen does fray a lot.
To style RIVA pants requires no effort. I thrifted an oversized turtleneck sweater and removed the sleeves. The loose fit at the arm hole and neck go well with the flowingness of the pants. Also this outfit is warm enough for the cold AC in the office.
12 Comments
Emily Merton
They turned out lovely, and you styled them beautifully. May have convinced me to splurge on the pattern, thank you!
Binyue Hou
Thank you Emily! I am working on the RIVA shirt now, definitely learning a lot from this pattern:)
B. Y. Negron
I really enjoyed this review. It was masterfully done. I can see your points on the pockets and I agree that you can change them if you require them to be useful. I also agree that if a person does not have an interlock machine then French seams are the way to go. Personally I like French seams better. May I ask the brand and model of the small iron that you purchased?
Binyue Hou
Thank you!! The iron brand is ‘Ivation’, the name is ‘Small mini Iron’, I got it from Amazon but I also saw similar irons in local fabric shop.
Nalani Mcclendon
Thanks for your detailed review. I learned a lot from your account of your sewing experience. I hope that you will write more!
Binyue Hou
Hi Nalani, thank you, I will write more!
Marianne Johnson
I enjoyed reading your pattern review. Your description of the construction details was helpful. The pants look great on you! BTW I’m stealing your oversized turtleneck deconstruction! brilliant!
Binyue Hou
Hi Marianne, thank you! Haha I know! The deconstruction converts a chunky piece into an arty piece:)
Rebecca Burrington
Beautiful! That’s a great look
Binyue Hou
Thank you Rebecca!
Greta Johnson
These trousers are a lovely make Binyue.
Binyue Hou
Thank you Greta!