PATTERN REVIEW: Ruby Crossover Dress in Lagoon Linen
If you have followed my writings and sewing pattern reviews over the last year, then you know how much I’m drawn to a surplice top. This week, my obsession continued by creating the RUBY Crossover Dress in Midweight LAGOON linen.
The Ruby Crossover is another one of Fabrics-store’s free downloadable patterns. The combination of a surplice top, V-neckline, and elastic waistband creates a very flattering silhouette. This dress hugs the body in all the right spots while remaining comfortable. I’m not much of a dress person, but in the hot summer months to come, I know this linen dress will get lots of wear. It’s the perfect piece to pull-on and go. Little effort, big impact. The lagoon color reminds me so much of Lake Michigan in the summer, a faded blue bringing back the best memories.
To make this dress, I followed the step-by-step tutorial with a couple minor changes. Since the patch pocket opening is cut on the bias, I ran a line of staystitching along the edge before folding and finishing to prevent any potential stretching. The pocket proportion worked well for the size 2 dress I made, but might look a little small on a larger size. You could consider making the pockets bigger depending on your preference. I also added a bar tack to the front bodice to secure the wrap in place while wearing. I placed the bar tack along my existing bias binding stitch line to be inconspicuous. Adding a button is another option.
A surplice top differs from a wrap style because the two overlapping pieces are sewn into the waistline seam. This creates a wrap look without all the extra fabric. Not only does it sew up faster, but it costs less as well. Since the pieces are sewn down, the bodice feels more secure and modest than some wrap designs. For these reasons, I think the surplice bodice is an attractive look for many shapes and sizes.
I would recommend this pattern to anyone looking to sew a simple and stylish dress. From beginners to seasoned seamstresses, this pattern is a wonderful option for all skill sets and body shapes. It could easily be adjusted to make just a top or separates as well, something I’m already dreaming about as I look through my linen scrap pile.
I can hardly wait to wear this dress to the lake all summer, the shores of Lake Michigan in Door County if I’m lucky. If you have any questions about the sewing pattern or the finished product, please leave them in the comment section below. I would love to hear from you!
Happy sewing,
Morgann
2 Comments
Catherine Mccurdy
I love your articles featuring the Fabric-Store patterns and fabric. I have a question regarding this particular dress. Can a full bust adjustment be used with this pattern? Do you think it would be wise to select the pattern based upon the upper bust, rather than the full?
Lauren Gates
Hello Catherine,
If you have a full bust, I would select the pattern based on the upper bust or the bust measurement – 2″. You can perform a full bust adjustment (FBA) but I would recommend sewing a toile/muslin since this fabric for the bust is cut on the bias and already has some stretch in it, more than a pattern cut on the straight grain does. So you could be a little more conservative with your adjustment.
Also adding a bust dart for the FBA will also interrupt the stripe on this garment’s fabric, so I would opt for a non-stripe fabric too.
We have a tutorial for an FBA here: https://blog.fabrics-store.com/2017/01/10/sewing-glossary-full-bust-adjustment-tutorial/
If you’d like more help, feel free to email us: Ask@fabrics-store.com