Sewing Essentials: How to adjust your own Zips

October 19, 2015 by Cynthia Fong 14055 4

Sometimes you have a specific project in mind, and yet you really struggle to source all the components to match your idea to reality. We had an idea for a project and yet couldn’t find the right length for a metal zip. We were told that long close end zips with metallic teeth’ were simply not manufactured. You could buy’ long open ended zips’ for jackets and coats or short close ended zips for trousers and skirts closures, and yet nothing that would bring our star project to completion.Of course nothing stands in front of true creativity, so we have decided we can adjust the length of the zip ourselves. And since we are friendly and like to help our fellow seamstresses, we are now going to share how you too can do this in the comfort of your own home.

Materials

Desired length of zip

2 Top Stops in the right size

1 Botton Stop in the right size

A zip puller

(For this tutorial, the zips and its components are size 6)

Tools

A pair of pliers

A pair of wire cutters

Scissors

Tape measure

Fabric marker

Step

1. Measure the desired length for your zip and add on 3/4 inch (2cm) at the top’ and bottom of the zip.

2. Mark the desired’ length’ (21 3/4 in (55cm) for this tutorial) as well as the required extra’ length (3/4 in (2cm) on both sides) with the fabric marker on the tape.

3. Mind the’ metal teeth and slowly cut off the required length of the zip.

4. Using the desired’ marked length as your guide (21 3/4 in (55cm) for this tutorial), take off all metal teeth below the mark with your wire cutting pliers at the top and the bottom of the zip.

5. Be very careful’ when cutting, preferably’ wear protective eyewear as these metal parts can be quite ‘reactive’.

6. Take the two Top Stops and’ place them at the marked point.

7. As you can see in the photo above, you will need to remove 2 more teeth from each side, so that once you have secured the two top stops the length of your zip will remain at 55cm. Use pliers to remove teeth carefully.

10. Next, we place the Bottom Stop at the bottom’ of the zip. Place it right below the last bottom tooth. Do not place Bottom Stop diagonally where it would touch both teeth.

11. Using the pliers (and a lot of force) secure’ the Bottom Stop’ onto Tape. Test it’s stability by trying to move the metal up and down.

12. Once it’s stable you have now created the closed end for your zipper.

13. Next, slide the zip puller through’ the top of the zip and open the zip slightly.

14. Check which’ side the last top tooth sits on, this is the side where the Top Stop will be touching the tooth.

15. Secure this Top Stop with a pair of pliers onto Tape.

16. Next, place the second Top Stop’ on the opposite’ side, but this time leave some space apart from the’ last tooth. Secure the Top Stop with pliers.

17. Carefully pull the zip glider up and down to make sure the zip matches up.

18. Et voila you have just made your first customised zip! Now onto even more projects because you have just increased all the possibilities!!

Now that you know how to adjust your own zip, why not take a look at our selection of linen fabric and choose one for that tutorial you had to give up once before of the lack of zips?

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4 Comments

Valerie Frane

January 12, 2018 - 8:21 am

Thank you for the clear and helpful tutorial. I appreciate your free patterns and advice.
Reply to comment
Christa Jennings

October 19, 2015 - 7:22 pm

Please edit your spelling, word choices, and grammar for clarity. I had trouble understanding what you were trying to say in a few places. Also, where do you get the metal bits for both ends, and zipper pulls? I have a whole box of 30″ zippers, and would love to be able to create custom zippers for my projects.
Reply to comment
Janes sister

October 19, 2015 - 1:39 pm

Very interesting, but rather complicated. It is much simpler to leave the top end alone and cut it off at the bottom and hand stitch (bar tack) across from side to side to close it off. The zip will not go past the hand stitching.
Reply to comment
Janet

October 19, 2015 - 12:12 pm

Thanks for this very useful tutorial. I will Pin it for future reference. : )
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