Black Linen Culottes Tutorial

Black Linen Culottes Tutorial

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After receiving many comments from our readers asking to show a tutorial on how to make a pair of culottes we have decided to do just that- so here is a simple tutorial on how to make a pair of culottes in magnificent black linen.’ We have changed the pocket designs a little from the this tutorial, but have taken certain elements that have received positive response and incorporated into this tutorial. We hope you enjoy making this as much as we did.

Material

2 yards of IL019 Black Softened
Matching sewing thread

material

Tools

Pattern master, pattern paper
Paper scissors, fabric scissors
Fabric marker, pins, tape measure
Elastic, Safety pin

tool

 

Time

3-4′ hours

Difficulty

Beginner

Steps

Note: Prewash your fabric and tumble dry it until it is still slightly moist, let this dry in room temperature.

1. Iron the fabric so it is easier to work with

2. DOWNLOAD MULTI SIZED PATTERN HERE

3. Use a serger, or choose your own method to protect the seams from fraying. Make sure the method you choose does not add weight to the fabric.

4. Pin the ‘Pocket Panel 2′ to’ the front trouser panel at the curve. Stitch together and press open.

pinned curve

5. Make small snippets along the wrong side of the curve to allow easy movement of the fabric when folded back to the right side.

snip curve

6. Pin the side the bottom seas of the two pocket panels together. Stitch the seam together at the given seam allowance.

pinned inner pocket

 

completed pocket

7. Pin together the outer side seam of the trousers. Stitch along the long seam and press it open.

pinned side seam

8. Next, pin together’ the inner seam of the trousers. Stitch along seam and press open.

9. With one trouser leg on its right side, fit it into the other trouser leg and pin together at the curve. Stitch along this curve and press it open.

pinned bottom seam

10. Pin one side seam of the waistband together. Stitch it and press open. Leave the other side seam as this will be where you will fit the elastic band through at the end.

pinned waistband

11. Fold the waistband in half and press it. Then, press the seam allowance of the waistband onto its wrong side.

12. Pin the waistband onto the trousers. Making sure the side seams are matched up.

attach waistband

13. Stitch along. We will now divide the waistband into two halves so that we can feed two identical elastic bands to sit at the waist.’ Make a mark along the middle of the waistband and stitch along this line as shown below (the stitch is quite faint, but you can see it if you look closely). Make sure that both of your’ elastic bands will fit through’ the two openings in the waist band.

double elastic

14. Attach the elastic to a safety pin and feed it through the waistband. Join the elastic together once it’s threaded through the whole way.

thread elastic

stitched elastic

15. Repeat the same for the second elastic band.

16. Using a sewing needle, hand stitch together the opening of the waistband. Making sure it doesn’t catch onto the elastic band.

handstitch

17. Fold the seam allowance of the trouser hem onto its wrong side and top stitch over this. Press.

hem

Now that you know how to make a pair of culottes, why not browse around our website and take your pick of fabric from our plethora of linen and make yourself different coloured pairs for different occasions?

19 comments

  1. sandy

    It looks like the patterns are no longer available from the link listed above. Can you provide another location to get this pattern. I would really love to sew these pants. Thanks, Sandy

  2. Christine Cassidy

    I got the Adobe Reader OK but I cannot figure out how to get the full pattern PDF. I only get the two pages with the photos and directions to get the Reader. Is everybody else seeing the pattern ? What am i doing wrong, or is the pdf link broken?

  3. Janet

    Have to agree with AmyCat about starting with our own measurements. Then we can add the appropriate amount of ease. Much more custom, as we are not all shaped alike. No wasting time changing sizes.
    As I have asked twice before without an answer, what measurements compose the size S, Ms Fong, you start with???

  4. Linda

    This is pretty confusing to me but I’d really like to try and make them regardless. Today I learned how to do a bobbin and thread my new machine for the first time so working without a pattern or trying to make one is rather intimidating. I would happily pay for the pattern in my size. Btw, do you sell patterns?

    1. Masha Karpushina

      Hello Linda! We have just started a new campaign and you can actually get a free pattern right here. https://fabrics-store.com/linen/dress_pattern/sew_dress.php
      We used to do printable patterns so if you look back about a year ago, you will find some which you can download and put together. in most cases though, we try to use really simple shapes with straight angles to make it easier to learn how to pattern. another really good way to start a pattern is to take a piece of clothing you already have that fits you well and trace it panel by panel adding about an inch hem allowance

  5. Adrienne

    I think it would be a LOT easier if you started with a size 12 pattern. Trying to size up from a 6 to a 14 or 16 is very, very time consuming. If the pattern is somewhere more in the middle, size 14 or 16 folks–for instance–don’t have to go through the grading 3 or 4 times and the grading down size would also be fairly simple as well. The culottes look nice and I’d love to make and wear them but multiple grading size up changes just doesn’t appeal.

    1. Stephanie

      Probably the sewist is making the pattern to fit the model or herself whichever the case may be and that means a size 6-8. Grading is simply a multiplication and addition (or subtraction) and not much different when sizing up or down 2 sizes or 6 sizes.

      1. Masha Karpushina

        You are right Stephanie. it is precisely the case, both me and Cynthia are about that size so we make it to fit for the photos. and again. you are right- its just a matter of adding roughly 2 cm for every size up or down.

    2. AmyCat =^.^=

      Yes, GREAT suggestion. Also good would be more draft-it-yourself patterns based on individual measurements (e.g.: a formula for taking EACH person’s waist, hip, “rise” — the crotch seam — and length measurements, and applying them to the basic pattern SHAPE to get a custom-fitted).

      For me, I’m FAT, and I’d be making MASSIVE changes to get this in my size from the size given. Rather than “upscale” from a Size 6/8 to my own Size 3X (about 20-something?), for instance, I’ll start with a pair of pants and a full-cut, elastic-waist skirt which fit me. Trace the curved “rise” seams on the pants, and then the outline of the skirt folded down the middle (pull the elastic waistband taut!). Now add about 1/2″ to the bottom for the hem, 3/4″ at the top, and 2″ everywhere else for loose, roomy fit & seam allowances.

      For waistband length, use your HIP measurement at the widest point, plus an inch or so for seam allowance (to test this measurement, tie a length of NON-stretchy string or ribbon at the finished circumference, and see if you can slide it on over your hips easily), and make the rest of the waistband as shown. If the elastic doesn’t gather things tightly enough at your waist, use a “waistband elastic” with enclosed drawstring and follow the package directions.

      I’d also make my pockets about an inch or so deeper than those shown, but I like REALLY deep pockets so things don’t fall out. 🙂

      If you have a bit of experience drafting your own patterns (I’ve been making historic costumes for 25+ years, for S.C.A. and RenFaires), you can use a tutorial like this to get the basic idea for the SHAPE of your pattern pieces, and (more important) how to fit everything together. For those of you who’ve never done a garment without a pattern, it’s NOT so hard. Google things like “Historic costuming” and “Sewing: rectangular construction” and follow links from SCA.org (look on Resources for Newcomers!)
      Some examples I just found:
      http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html
      http://www.renaissancetailor.com/demos_rectangles.htm

      1. Kim

        AWESOME advise!! I’ve sewn my own clothing since I was 12, which was decades ago, but have never drafted my own pattern. I don’t even make pants because I never get them to fit comfortably. Your comment here is inspirational and thank you for the reference websites.

      2. Masha Karpushina

        this is excellent advise, would you be interested to write for us? I have been especially looking to work with someone who specialises in historic costumes as we have such a big audience from this market. if you are keen, do send me an email to maskar@gmail.com thank you, Masha


    1. Author
      Cynthia Fong

      Thank you for your comment. We have a tutorial that helps you to grade a pattern to the right size you want. Here is the link.

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